M48TANKER

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About M48TANKER

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  • Birthday 11/22/1948

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    M48TANKER

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    Bluegrass State

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  1. aVian, Welcome to the Johnson message board. Congratulations on your solution. Others have had to do the same thing, similar to the ejection port door on an M16. Like you, I've kept my eyes open for any Johnson magazine spring. A couple of our long time members have fabricated their own springs to match the originals as close as possible. You have to wonder if somewhere, in a dusty warehouse, in the dark and forgotten....is there a 55 gallon drum of Johnson magazine door springs? I think I'd buy the whole barrel full if I could find it! I know you'll enjoy the 1941 Johnson and will be a frequent reader of the message board. Here you will find a wealth of information on Johnsons and some very knowledgeable collectors. A few of us even have some parts squirreled away. M48TANKER
  2. This appears to be a Miltech restoration at a fair price. https://www.gunbroker.com/Item/761459106
  3. Here are some diagrams which I've gathered from this forum at different times. The measurements are very close but as you'll see they differ from one diagram to another. Whether that's due to interpretation of 1.40 as 1&3/8ths inches.....I don't know. This first diagram was originally for a LMG or "Carbine" barrel, so overall length won't be correct for rifle length barrel. The measurements from the breech end to the Barrel guide bushing, and from the muzzle back toward the bayonet lug should work. On the bayonet lug the cross pins will of course be on the bottom. The next view is only of the front: Yet another piece of info from Mr. Joe Scott: Johnson barrel step cut info.eml I've done several barrels myself and found that it's best to use a micrometer to check the I.D. of the bayonet lug, and the I.D. of the front sight which you are going to use, when determining the diameter of the barrel at each step. Some sights and bayonet lugs might differ and could cause a loose fit or too tight. Fit your particular bayonet lug and sight to your barrel.
  4. I really didn't think this barrel would bring this much. With Johnsons you never can tell. If any of you were bidding and lost out....don't despair. I happen to have a very nice Chilean 7x57 barrel which I can sell to you. Just contact me. $1300.00 plus shipping.
  5. I got your private message and have responded.
  6. dagarbuz, I still have the barrel with the shark fin front sight. Thanks for your inquiry, M48TANKER
  7. metrotps, Yes, I really like McMaster-Carr too. I've used them for many pounds of rivets for M2HBs, 1919A4's and AKs. Lots of end mills too. Put me in a hardware store and I'll stay for hours. So many toys...so little money!
  8. I believe that I have a few hundred linked rounds of 30.06 blanks. I'll pull a few out of the belt 'to see if they will cycle the action. I'll let you know the results. The only caveat I can think of is you should probably use some type of muzzle deflector in case the blank expels a shard of brass? I believe my blanks are simply crimped on the end of the brass casing.
  9. Joe, thanks for the information. I went to Wholesale Tools of Tulsa's web page and found the hones you spoke of. They are much cheaper than the ones sold by "Brush Research" .com. Next time I'll order from WTT and compare the products. Here is the list on WTT's web site showing the 12mm hones: http://www.wttool.com/index/page/category/category_id/13541/#product_listing=%3Fcurrent_page%3D2%26results_per_page%3D20%26order_by%3D%26search_params%3D
  10. Many times we get questions about extraction and ejection problems. A lot of problems can be cured by cleaning and/or honing the chamber. If done properly this is not going to hurt your chamber and will keep it serviceable for many years to come. Mr. Joe Scott has advocated chamber cleaning and honing time after time in response to these problems. I've used different combinations of brass brushes, worn emery cloth, and even resorted to a newly purchased finish reamer for one project. In response to one of Joe Scott's posts about the tools being available at online supply houses, I found a place which sells all sorts of "Flex-Hones" .....even some especially made for firearms. So, here is one place to order your chamber hones: https://www.brushresearch.com/ Not only do they sell hones for firearms but they offer videos of how to use them, and have hones for every other purpose on earth. I just placed an order for two hones: a 400 grit hone and an 800 grit hone. They aren't particularly cheap but I suspect they will last me many years. This is what the order looked like:
  11. Wishing you all a very Merry CHRISTmas and a Happy New Year. Don't forget the reason for the season!
  12. Jeff, Your photos are excellent! Thanks for sharing. The only problem with collecting 1941 Johnsons is that they don't have many accessories to hunt for. I've got several bayonets if you ever need one. If you don't already have the books and manual to go with the Johnson, then you'll find those useful. Here is the url of our "brother site" with lots more information: http://www.johnsonautomatics.com/ The file below came from that website:
  13. Hello Jeff, It's good to have you here. I'm an old Vietnam Veteran and I too have loved military collectibles all my life. My son David recently retired from the Marines as a CWO4 after 22 years. Helicopters most of the time and finally Ospreys. You'll find a wealth of information on this forum and a lot of very helpful people. We love pictures of 1941 Johnsons too. If you could post a few pictures of your latest acquisition, we will all appreciate it. I couldn't wait.....hehehe.....typed in a search for 1941 Johnson #3188 and here are the results: https://chesterfieldarmament.com/products/1941-johnson
  14. A question for Joe Scott. If the new barrel weighs a bit more than the old Johnson barrel, will this affect the function of the rifle. Specifically, as in using a 1903 barrel to replace the Johnson barrel?
  15. Here is more info on the torch cut demills vs. a "De-Activated War Trophy".......The De-activated War Trophy would have needed to be registered with the NFA before 1986. If you had paperwork showing the firearm is indeed a registered "De-Wat" then there is a procedure to re-activate it. I think that would require the filing of a Form 1 with the BATFE and getting approval to "Re-activate the War Trophy" before you start construction. De-mills on the other hand are considered to have been "destroyed" by the torch cutting or saw-cutting process, so as to render them simply pieces of junk metal, not capable of being readily or easily reconstructed. I hope this helps. Your best bet is to construct a semi automatic firearm which needs no approval.