M48TANKER

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About M48TANKER

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  • Birthday 11/22/1948

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  1. After completely refreshing my memory: I now pronounce these two bayonets to be Originals (in my humble opinion.....for what that's worth)
  2. Hey Harry, Thanks, that the best reference we have. I've almost worn that link out over the years. There are just some bayonets that don't follow all the rules. I do know that at one time Sarco was selling the reproduced bayonets that were well done and they listed them as reproductions. Numrich also sold the domed rivets and proper flatter arched spring. So these two areas could be modified. The muzzle ring can be much heavier on the reproductions also. The spring latch has a couple of "ears" that are usually square cut on the repros and more rounded on the originals. The way the rivet is peened can be altered too. When a bayonet meets every criteria and the sheath does also, it's usually easy to pronounce them as original. There are just some that are ever so slightly off. These are the ones that cause me to wonder. c
  3. I vote for authenticity. There are some differences between the two in the manufacturing process used. In your last picture, the side view, the flatter shape of the spring looks like the originals. However there are "machining" marks on the one on the right that are not apparent on the one on the left. Now a question for the real experts: Were all Johnson bayonets made by the same manufacturer, in same fashion, using the same methods and materials? From the pictures it would seem that they were not
  4. Cosmo, I'm not the expert but they have most of the characteristics of being original. I could guess a bit better if you posted a side view so we could see the depth of the arch in the spring.
  5. Rifleman, If someone is trying to "re-militarize" a Winfield Deluxe Sporter, they often just dispose of the Winfield stock with it's cheekpiece, larger heel, and rubber buttpad. Getting the recoil tube out of a Winfield stock, or any older stock, can involve destroying the donor stock just to get the tube out. My preference is to re-shape the Winfield stock. It can take a fair amount of woodworking skill, sanding equipment, and elbow grease to get the job done. Since original stocks are very scarce and pricey when you do find one....reforming the stock you already have is a viable option. I actually enjoy making a "silk purse out of a sow's ear." I feel sure that some of the members of this community have old Winfield stocks squirreled away due to lack of demand for them. At one time I remember Joe Scott said he couldn't give the old stocks away. Now with the possibility of access to new stocks made on a duplicator, and you guys being able to make new recoil spring tubes.....things are looking better for replacement stocks in the future. Hi Bob, I once researched a lot of online "reviews" by people who had dealt with some of the existing stock duplicators. One fellow had retired and sold his equipment to someone else, leaving a big void in the supply. I was afraid that you might get less than you bargained for. I've given some thought as to how to go about drilling the mainspring tube hole. It seems to me that it will require some sort of fixture or jig to hold the stock and drill bit in relative position. I'm going to see if I can figure out a way to drill that hole without taking a chance on wrecking the new stock..
  6. I really hate it when the "armory" repair "technicians" don't make the slightest attempt to match the grain in those repair "plugs" what-so-ever! I'm not even sure why they would use plugs where they did. Maybe they thought the "cheeks" were going to fall off? Perhaps Loctite Super Glue hadn't been invented back then. (or maybe those were bullet holes?) Even so, I think they had the old time glue made from defunct race horses.....even "Elmers Glue" would probably have worked? Glue it ....put the stock in a wood vice and let it dry. The "plugs" in Winfield Sporter stocks, which hide the recoil key for the recoil buffer tube, are sometime done so well that an untrained eye can't find them. I sort of wish I had a chance to do a proper repair to that stock just to show how it's supposed to be done. Of course I did notice the "fit" of the buttplate and that brass screw. Even as shaky as my old hands are, I wouldn't butcher the taper pins in the front sight and bayonet lug! Other than those very minor flaws......The rifle could be an extraordinary specimen. Nothing there which can't be fixed. That sling is not a cheepie either and I'd love to have it.
  7. I've had good luck reshaping the sporter stocks into military configuration. I've done several. Check my gallery photos to see one which I've done. If you have a sporter stock it's possible to have it re-configured. I retired after spending nearly 50 years as a carpenter. The Winfield Deluxe Sporter stock below has been refinished after shaping. Might be a bit too glossy but that can be remedied with some fine steel wool. Or remove most of the finish and beat the thing up a bit yourself. The wood has a really odd grain pattern.......might have come from near Chernobyl.
  8. This is in no way any type of accusation! I am only pointing out a "strange looking area" on the receiver. Whenever there is any discoloration or "damage" or oddity in the serial number area.....I'm always curious. Now I'm not saying anything is wrong with the receiver, since it could be my overactive imagination. I, for one, wouldn't touch it with a ten foot light sabre. Do any of you see what I'm trying to point out? Is this something that could have been done at the factory? How about being done overseas? Just saying................... This is in no way any type of accusation! I am only pointing out a "strange looking area" on the receiver.
  9. aVian, Welcome to the Johnson message board. Congratulations on your solution. Others have had to do the same thing, similar to the ejection port door on an M16. Like you, I've kept my eyes open for any Johnson magazine spring. A couple of our long time members have fabricated their own springs to match the originals as close as possible. You have to wonder if somewhere, in a dusty warehouse, in the dark and forgotten....is there a 55 gallon drum of Johnson magazine door springs? I think I'd buy the whole barrel full if I could find it! I know you'll enjoy the 1941 Johnson and will be a frequent reader of the message board. Here you will find a wealth of information on Johnsons and some very knowledgeable collectors. A few of us even have some parts squirreled away. M48TANKER
  10. This appears to be a Miltech restoration at a fair price. https://www.gunbroker.com/Item/761459106
  11. Here are some diagrams which I've gathered from this forum at different times. The measurements are very close but as you'll see they differ from one diagram to another. Whether that's due to interpretation of 1.40 as 1&3/8ths inches.....I don't know. This first diagram was originally for a LMG or "Carbine" barrel, so overall length won't be correct for rifle length barrel. The measurements from the breech end to the Barrel guide bushing, and from the muzzle back toward the bayonet lug should work. On the bayonet lug the cross pins will of course be on the bottom. The next view is only of the front: Yet another piece of info from Mr. Joe Scott: Johnson barrel step cut info.eml I've done several barrels myself and found that it's best to use a micrometer to check the I.D. of the bayonet lug, and the I.D. of the front sight which you are going to use, when determining the diameter of the barrel at each step. Some sights and bayonet lugs might differ and could cause a loose fit or too tight. Fit your particular bayonet lug and sight to your barrel.
  12. I really didn't think this barrel would bring this much. With Johnsons you never can tell. If any of you were bidding and lost out....don't despair. I happen to have a very nice Chilean 7x57 barrel which I can sell to you. Just contact me. $1300.00 plus shipping.
  13. I got your private message and have responded.
  14. dagarbuz, I still have the barrel with the shark fin front sight. Thanks for your inquiry, M48TANKER
  15. metrotps, Yes, I really like McMaster-Carr too. I've used them for many pounds of rivets for M2HBs, 1919A4's and AKs. Lots of end mills too. Put me in a hardware store and I'll stay for hours. So many toys...so little money!