Rifleman1

Hi there, the taper pins for the bayonet lug are # 2/0 and 5/8” long.. the ones I used were slightly longer at 3/4” but I took that 1/8 off then installed it. Get yourself a properly sized reamer (#2/0) for the job. Now that I’m thinking of it... I have a box full of #2/0 x 3/4” pins.. if you want I can send you some.. Bill (Rifleman 1)

Hi all, I have finished my barrel project, and am very pleased with the result.. see pictures.. For a finish, I decided to use bluing solution rather than parkerize it.. tried to create that elusive green hue by coating it with grease.. but in the end it kinda stayed dark.. I’m okay with that.. just happy that I have a good and safe shooter... Bill

roverboy,.. My original barrel was shot-out, as in, no rifling left at all, and the head spacing was far beyond of what was acceptable. The bolt would easily close on the no-go gauge ... I did shoot it a couple of times, but noticed that the ejected cartridges had bulged.. Always up for a challenge, I decided to make a new barrel. After practicing on several different 30-06 barrels, like the 1903 and a Remington take-off, I came across a "large ring" Mauser barrel new 30-06 that had pretty much the right contour, so I wouldn't have to do extensive full barrel turning on my little hobby lathe... Still I had to make all kinds of jigs and tool holders, but it was a great learning experience and I would do this again... Brian, I remember reading as well that Joseph Scott had looked into the original finishing on a JSAR and thanks for the tip on Brownell's Oxpho Blue, I will look into that. Thanks to everyone for their valuable input and tips, especially Joseph Scott, who gave me all the pointers on the dimensions and turning it on the lathe,.. Brian, ArtR, Ed Johnson, M48Tanker and everyone else I was in contact with about this project. Later, I will post pictures of the end-result with bayonet lug and front sight attached. Bill

Hi all Thanks for all the input and I cut my barrel to the exact same length of my original.. I have installed the center-bushing and tried it out today, put a box of ammo through it and no issues at all... ejects every time and feeds another... so now that I know this barrel is good.. I would like to parkerize it. Oh and put the bayonet lug and front sight on... I have included some pictures...

Hi there, I haven’t posted anything in awhile.. I’m almost done making a new barrel for my JSAR.. the hard part at the chamber-end is done.. I need to install the middle bushing, bayonet lug and front sight.. then cut to length.... One thing crossed my mind.. Is there such a thing as “the correct barrel length” for a JSAR.? Or is there lots of variation..? My original barrel measures 22-5/8” total length incl. the locking bushing.. I would like to know from other JSAR owners before I make the final cut... Thanks, Bill

I have a N.O.S. P17 barrel that I am willing to turn into a replacement JSAR barrel, if it can be done... Everything is longer and fatter on this barrel, so it needs quite a bit machining.. Anyone with experience on this..? Bill

Comparing 2 locking bushings.. one is from my very early JSAR, the other (not barreled) has markings on the face, and the lugs are more slant inwards.. I would like to know why this difference, or is it a worn-out bushing..? Bill

Reshaping a sporter stock into military configuration.. that looks good... nothing wrong with that.. Are these sporter stocks (more) available..? I presume in way better shape than the (scarce) military ones..?

Bob, I’m already building a stock duplicator.. that’s my next project so, I will let you know what that is like..

Hey Bob, I made three now.. the biggest difference from the original is that I used an M15 x 0.75 thread for the plug.. as I had to use a tap and die... so the original plug won’t fit my tube.. but I made a matching plug for that.. the other thing is the saddle with the key slot.. the first tube I installed the key wasn’t perfectly perpendicular so I had to tweak that a little... so it takes a little effort to install it right... if you still want one I can either send you one, or you can send me the stock and I will install for you...

Hi all, A couple of months ago, I decided to make a new recoil tube myself.. for the better stock that didn’t have one.. A bit of a challenge as I have limited skills on my 9 x 19 hobby lathe... and no milling machine, but with a lot of experimenting and numerous custom part holders, I was able to get a decent result that worked for me.. here are some pictures. Bill

Hi all, I'm changing the stock for a better one, so I got the recoil tube out and cleaned it up.. I am a little puzzled about the very fine thread on the buffer assembly that screws into the tube.. Mr. Scott mentioned in an earlier post that it is M15 x 40 tpi.. I thought back in the days of manufacture, everything was imperial.. Any idea as to why this particular thread was used..? just curious... My recoil spring measured 10-1/2" long, so I will need a new one... Any available..? Thanks, Bill

Does anyone have a replacement main spring tube available for me to buy, or does someone make them new..? The tube in my (early) JSAR has a section missing at the front.. The tube is extremely thin, do these wear out over time..? (see picture) Thanks, Bill

Thank you for the information. Every time I go to this site, I learn more... My rifle is of the early type, so I think I will leave it the way it is.. Thanks again, Bill

The cross pins on my Jsar are both the same... Does anybody have a proper rear one..(with that protrusion) and is maybe wanting to sell or trade..? Thanks, Bill