diggerj

Start with the barrel collar flush with the radiator opening (see pic) and put light upward pressure on the latch. Slowly press back the barrel with the other hand as you keep light pressure; and when the right spot is reached, it will slide right up and lock. It's still possible that you have a bolt hold in the weapon but it is not engaging properly due to the retracting and subsequent replacement of the trigger block/butt stock lower section back onto the receiver during reassenbly without depressing the magazine door. You'll need to learn how to slide that back to see if one is there and then close her up correctly. diggerj

The website states it's great for rust removal off iron and steel parts but can also remove finishes, e.g. "Parkerizing" which is a phosphate oxide. WEAPONS / FINISH COMPATIBILITY EVAPO-RUST® is highly recommended by the NRA gunsmithing school and is utilized by FBI, CIA, NATO and other law enforcement and forensics agencies. EVAPO-RUST® perfect for removing weapon finishes such as Bluing, Parkerizing, Zinc Phosphate, and Browning. Anodizing, powder coating, chrome, nickel, ion bonding, paint, and most other coatings will not be removed as long as they do not contain oxides. EVAPO-RUST® will not harm lead or solder points. diggerj

Congratulations "Sarge" - it's hard to believe you achieved that full time while you do this "part-time" website!! Many thanks for the extra effort for the many of us who enjoy being part of this group. (Does this mean you'll eat doughnuts now and gain weight?) LOL best regards, John D.

Are you loading from stripper clips or single rounds? Sounds like you can use a new mag door spring. Rgds, John D.

I never looked closely at my two non-prefix and one A-prefix but will. I always wondered why it could not have been that there were indeed several fabrication lines running (non, A- and B-) and concurrent product made but different. the first jig may have been followed by two more made subsequently when there was a "rush of orders" for NPC. Also never questioned the use of production numbers even though they weren't concerned about using them in any order. I believe they were quality control numbers such that if something were wrong on a production process machine they could back-track from a bad item produced to the point before and after when the item was correct. (Now I have to dig out the receivers and look!) Regards all. John D.

Karl: Your numbers and Marine history can use some adjustment, but moreso - the rear sight and repark on the magazine seem to infer rehab was done on this JSAR; and I would think the condition of the barrel would be cited if you post to the people at this site. Best of luck, John

Yes it is. The fork-shaped forging starting center with a "V"-notch in the forging top and extending to the right on either side of the hammer. It sits on top and snaps lightly into place, i.e. user-installed easily after exposing the trigger group from above. Where are you located - maybe someone nearby. John

See Sgt Hollywood post of 3/12/07 and look at the part that is the trigger group shot from above view. The bolt catch lies on the top and to the right hand side. John

You may want to ask folks how many there may be in original military configuration -- it'll be a guess but a smaller one!!

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Many thanks Brian for your input. This stuff is like waterfront property - they ain't making any more (unless global warming changes that premise!). Guess my two mint receivers will hibernate until a tapped 7mm JSAR surfaces and I am flush with the cash to acquire. The latter may occur after global warming ends! Best regards, John D.

Brian: What would you peg the price for an original 7mm barrel with good bore? Would you know a source at this point in time? Regards, John D.

As stated so often here - buy the gun and not the story!!!!! People are fascinated with a weapon from the Johnson story and probably think as the stock market goes in and out that they are "investment quality" at times no matter what condition. As a side bar, though, it might be interesting for this board to have the ability to rank the value of parts for JSARs in respect to each other by virtue of their scarcity or availability, e.g. a prime receiver is 2000 points, a 7mm barrel is 600 points, a bayonet with scabbard is 400 points etc. Not sure how that would be arranged, but interesting data if it could be accumulated! Rgds, John D.

Joe: I'm pretty sure this is the one you mean -- still works: http://www.network54.com/Forum/330333/mess...8898641/Surinam John D.

Tom: Sorry, I guess it's clear to some, but not to me - sounds intriguing! I guess step #1 is procure a Mauser sling somewhere and then swap the front button for something? I just got an original OD web sling as I didn't want to get a repro leather, but this sounds like it really looks great! Can you elaborate or show a pic? Rgds, John D.

Bob: From the Johnson website itself - just checked it again - http://www.johnsonautomatics.com/plant.htm it describes Universal Windings making M1 parts subcontracting to another company to include bolts, receivers etc. and a manufacturer's code U-W on made parts. There is an excerpt from the contract holder mentioning the precision needed for making textile high speed converting equipment for arms production and it's dated 1943. It all makes sense.........again, best to all on this notable day. We Will Not Forget 9-11.................... John D.

FY All -- Having spent several years in the textile trade, I am certain (but withouit proof thereof) that the mags were made by Universal Winding (later Leesona Corp). as that company made yarn rewinders with exactly the same stamped steel for their housings and also made internal machined parts for textile processing equipment. I would venture to say they produced the entire magazine. They of course also housed JSAR production facilities. Best regards, John D.

These shots are a class in themselves and should do everything you want. See: Sgt.Hollywood Posted: Mar 12 2007, 12:47 PM John D.

I am no metals expert (nor any other kind, unfortunately) but the receivers appear forged to me and I'm sure would be followed with a specific heat treatment and then machined. I would think any localized high heat would re-orient the metal big time and would anticipate as Joe S. says that any reweld job should be expected to result in a warpage. Buyer beware (still)! John D.

Gents: I had this come through a Google alert. It defines the value of an original operating JSAR in good shape. What are they thinking............... http://www.cabelas.com/gun-inventory---dun...hnson-dun.shtml John D.

I think that product has beeswax in it and is a great product to use as a final treatment. It may be less penetrating for initial rehab than the Tung Oil unless the remaining "1/3" is a low viscosity diluent like orange oil. Bottom line is -- if it works, and is endorsed by a JSAR owner - give it a GO! regards, John D.

I posted this with a link to the CMP which I have subsequently lost, but it appears that both tung oil abd Bolied Linseed Oil were used on JSARs depending on the year and availability of tung oil during the war. I have been happy with the results using 100% tung oil - NOT with additives!!!---first with a little mineral spirits to thin it out (small amount) to penetrate through and clean off old gunk. Wiped it down hard with a cheesecloth as per the CMP article. Next applied with a clean rag and let it soak until it came to the surface and THEN WIPE OFF THE EXCESS!!! I dried the wood parts using a lamp focused into a cardboard box and a cloth cover to make a heat box. This got just enough heat to advance the cure nicely. Third and subsequent wipes by rag and hand until the degree of gloss (should be minimal with tung oil, anyway) and results make you pleased. Others (Walt, I know) has done a great job with BLO also and I think Joe Scott has advised in past threads as he make replacement stocks. Note my opening statement below and enjoy the pursuit!! Happy New Year!! John D. diggerj Posted: Sep 17 2007, 02:23 PM B.T. --- I am far from an expert, but after digging into a web surfing on original finishes I came across: http://www.odcmp.com/Services/Rifles/wood_...ing_article.htm It's a long article by the CMP and very scientific as well as considerate of collector values both personal and monetary. Section 9. is the one most appropriate for the JSAR in my humble opinion and it calls out the use of only PURE Tung oil to clean and seal the wood. I actually cheated and used a first wash of tung oil (Pure) with a little mineral spirits to cut the grease, as it had been stored in an old shower curtain covered in it. Nothing else thereafter but pure tung oil, first 100% with the cheesecloth, then hand rubbed multiple times with wiping off of the excess. I would sift through past threads here and further comments before using anything at all, especially anything which would not have been used (invented, even) in 1941. Good luck and enjoy!! John

Re: Selling on the board --- It appears appropriate and already being done actually to make a firm offer to sell (not prospects or proposals) to the members of this board. It seems to me it would be a courtesy to us in gaining a "first offer" view in exchange for an extensive targeted audience - ready and willing to buy. (God knows, I'd love to acquire an original manual and a 7mm barrel when I felt "flush" with cash someday!) I think the critical point here is to NOT create an auction site. My two cents. Regards all, John D.

Re: Selling on the board --- It seems appropriate and already being done actually to make a firm offer to sell (not prospects or proposals) to the members of this board. It seems to me it would be a courtesy to us in gaining a "first offer" view in exchange for an extensive targeted audience - ready and willing to buy. (God knows, I'd love to acquire an original manual and a 7mm barrel when I felt "flush" with cash someday!) I think the critical point here is to NOT create an auction site. My two cents. Regards all, john D.

B.T. --- I am far from an expert, but after digging into a web surfing on original finishes I came across: http://www.odcmp.com/Services/Rifles/wood_...ing_article.htm It's a long article by the CMP and very scientific as well as considerate of collector values both personal and monetary. Section 9. is the one most appropriate for the JSAR in my humble opinion and it calls out the use of only PURE Tung oil to clean and seal the wood. I actually cheated and used a first wash of tung oil (Pure) with a little mineral spirits to cut the grease, as it had been stored in an old shower curtain covered in it. Nothing else thereafter but pure tung oil, first 100% with the cheesecloth, then hand rubbed multiple times with wiping off of the excess. I would sift through past threads here and further comments before using anything at all, especially anything which would not have been used (invented, even) in 1941. Good luck and enjoy!! John