emmagee1917

I find it interesting that 20-30 years ago you really never saw a Johnson with "V" notch sights , maybe only 1-2 per 100. In the last few years it's been harder to find one without them. Just an observation offered in a funny , kinda heart breaking , tear jurking sort of way. Chris

If you install the little flat door spring in the mag, housing up-side-down , it will cut it down to an 8-rounder or so. Don't ask me how I know.... Chris

The metal has been refinished. It looks to be an uncompleted restoration. The rear sight appears to be one of the repros made by Gun Parts and prob'ly was added after the refinish to replace whatever sporter sight was on it. The front sight also does not match and the bayo lug looks a little off , but orig. ones were common long after the orig rears dried up , so again , might have been added after the refinish. If the bbl lacks the proper markings , they could have been buffed off or the bbl could be a sporter bbl that's had the proper sight & lug added. The stock is a sporter too , as has been said. Still , it's a nice stock. Orig are hard to find and expensive. Mr. Scott makes a good repro set , but for the money and what yours is , I'd just finish the stock you have if you can. The plug can be removed. You need to check the mainspring anyway to see if it's good. You'll also need to see that the stock componets are there and properly installed to keep from breaking something . Is the length of pull OK ? Or did they pull a recoil pad off and now the stock's too short ? The proper sling swivel can be installed . How does the buttplate fit ? In the pics it looks like a gap exists between the stock and plate , but this may just be camera voodoo. Still , a nice clean looking rifle and one you won't be afraid to take out and enjoy . Chris

I guess it did not. Chris

The rough brass surface and pull marks from the extractor indicate that your chamber is a little rough or pitted. An all too common problem with these guns. A polish job should clear those up. The mark on the opposite side of the rim is from the ejector. If it is too deep , it indicates your bolt speed is excessive when the case contacts it. Check to see if your mainspring needs replacing and possibly the barrel latch spring ( because you are having problems up there , too ) Chris

The gun was firing from an open bolt as could be seen between the bursts. I'm not sure if these had the hold open on the last round feature or not or , if like the rifles , was optional depending on if the part was installed or not. Chris

Yes , it can be fixed by someone with the correct skills and tools. If noone here chimes in , you may check out the Milsurps site on the 1903 , Garand , and carbine boards. Chris

It may be a non-problem. AR-15s and M-16s , well at least the ones from 20-30 years ago , did the same thing as par for the course. It was only a problem with some brands of primers. I have never checked the Johnson for this , so I don't know if it's SOP or not. Chris

Hi neighbor . E-mail address sent. Chris

ryche_me , PM responded to . Not sure I did it right , let me know if you get nada. Chris

Well , I have , use , and help others with thier M1 Garands , BARs , 1903s , 1917s , 1917/1919A4 & 6s , which all used the same corrosive ammo and this does not seem to be a problem with them nearly as much. Of course , cleaning was stressed in the military , maybe more than in the countries these were in ? Or maybe it was as big a problem , and trips to a rebuild facility or the current supply of NOS parts has hidden the impact more in these other guns than in the Johnson which has always had a spare parts shortage by comparison . Just thinking out loud on this , I've never had any problems ( knock on wood ) with my single current example. Chris

I've been thinking about this. It seems that more people have more problems with this than just about any other gun I've read on. Is there a know reason for this ? Is the recoil action more violent ? Is the extractor smaller or more knife like to cut through the case ? Is this gun's primary extraction short in throw or weak ? Is the steel used in the bbls more prone to rust than the steel used in others ? Is it just because of the location where most of them served / stored or the level of care they were given ? Just not being stored in 20 lbs of cosmoline for thirty years ? Chris

Sounds like your extractor ( on the bolt ) is pulling through the rim. Your chamber is prob'ly a little frosted or pitted or rough. Your cases , when they expand and seal upon firing , are being held in by the rough surface making the extraction hard to do. You will prob'ly have to have the chamber polished back to smooth . Simple job ( due to the ease of bbl removal to get to the chamber ) and can be checked to see if this is the case. Chris

To me , the simplest solution would be the best. Joseph has the rear sight peep block and Numrich has reproduction rears. Buy those and weld-up / drill out to your heart's content . When it comes time to sell , replace with the origional parts. Simple. Chris

Twice won't let me post. Chris Well , maybe third times charm. As I said , twice now , there are three ways to have a M2 by US law , and none of them require the ability to fuction in full auto in this case. One...to have a reciever marked M2 or Overstamped M2 over the M1. This is proof that the gun once was a MG and it now falls in the once...always rule group. If unregestered it will be taken. The semi-auto parts may be kept. No other FA parts need to be present for a violation. Two...to have a M1 carbine with all the FA parts , or at least " the seven". Having the other four needed parts or being able to function in full auto is not required. If registered it falls into the once...always group. If not , strip the FA parts out and get rid of them. Rebuild as a semi and tell noone. Three...to have the seven parts. These are 1) the selector lever , 2) the 9-spring , 3) rocker assmly ( two pieces rivited together ) , 4) the M2 hammer , and 5) the disconnector with it's 6) spring and 7) plunger/cup. These 7 parts make a MG. No other parts need to be present for a violation. Now , even though you'll need a M2 sear , triggerguard , slide , and stock to make a conversion , they are not part of the kit. HTH , Chris

During WW2 , the crossed cannons / flaming shell / belt was the final inspectors mark. It meant the firearm had passed inspection and was accepted by the US govt. It was the final stamp put on it at the factory , and was not used by the rebuild armories. It was replaced in the '50s by the eagle and three stars in a box stamp. Was only applied to new firearms at the factory after final inspection , same as the one before. No gun would have both because you can't build it new twice. The small size of the CC is prob'ly due to a die based on one for a pistol plant. Chris

Well , now we know what those Johnsons and Nambu MGs did in the jungle after the war. Chris

Well , I guess I'm old , old school. A rifle does not have a pumping lube system , like a car engine for example. What is there to lube at the start is what is there at the end , there is no extra being pumped there. Also , what is spinning , if it is not just rotational sliding ? If a surface moves or is moved upon , I grease it with the grease out of the little Garand pots. If not , I just oil it with a good , high quality , clear gun oil, mainly for rust protection. The only exception is something like revolver guts where you have many small , delicate parts moving in very tight tolerances. For there , I have a can of singer sewing machine oil , which you can understand if you've ever looked at a running sewing machine. It's made for small , tight , high speed apps. Chris

Thanks for the heads up. I placed a $30 bid on it and it's at $23. It would be nice to have , but I'll go no higher. If someone else wants , go for it. Chris

JS , what did you find out about this ? I have an out of states fellow on Milsurp that needs a bbl for his Johnson. Don't know if he's Canadian or Brit or Aussie , but wondering if you are anyone could help him. He does have a shot-out bbl for parts and can get FAL ( I know , .308 and gas port , but it will screw into the collor) and has an 03 bbl too. Anyone have ideas to get him up and running? Thanks , Chris

Found this today. Three pages on the Johnson , lots of pics. Enjoy , Chris http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/lofiversion/index.php/f66.html

That's off quite a ways. Four things come to mind. One - is the rear sight assmly itself centered on the reciever ? Could the whole assmly be tapped over to center the block? Two - Is the front sight blade centered in the front sight block ? Is the front sight block itself top-dead-center in relation to the rifle or does it have a cant ? If canted , it would have to be removed , the bbl pin grooves welded up on the low side , the sight reinstalled straight , and the pin holes punched out again. Three - Is the bbl itself straight , or can you detect a bend to the right ? Fourth - check your crown for a burr or nick which could be throwing your bullets off as they leave the bbl. Others may have other ideas. You might consider sending it to Mr. Scott. Chris

It's just a fitted dove tail like a Winchester lever action or an M1 carbine. You can remove the sight and pien down the top and replace . You could also set it and wick in some loctite. Chris

19PM42....If you are wanting anyone to nibble at this , you need to post more info. Which 1941 ? Rifle? military or sporter? condition? finish? LMG ? Semi-auto LMG ? ETC. ETC. You also need to post some pics of what you have or at least be willing to send them to a prospetive trader. Just trying to help you ( already traded my mil-tech for an orig. minty military rifle that I had to replace the lug , front sight [cut off ears ] and one of JS's rear sight blocks [ also cut into a V ]). Chris

Grab one of the Numrich / Gun Parts catalogs and compare the wood to the print in them. It sure does look like that IIRC , including the part numbering system. Chris