Matt K.

Tung oil or BLO?

6 posts in this topic

Call me crazy or whatever, but here is a trick I learned from my maternal grandmother. She passed away 50 yeas ago. When I spent summers with her, I would help her with dusting and cleaning. Her house was an mid 1800's building with ash and walnut woodwork throughout. Really beautiful old place. One thing she used to do was "repair scratches and mars" on railings, doors, frames, and furniture. What she used as crushed walnuts. Over the years I have taken to using the same trick to "cover" nicks and scratches on my rifles. It has worked quite well. So much so, that I often will treat natural wood with pulverized walnut, balled in several layers of cheese cloth. Then I rub it to a natural sheen.

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I posted this with a link to the CMP which I have subsequently lost, but it appears that both tung oil abd Bolied Linseed Oil were used on JSARs depending on the year and availability of tung oil during the war. I have been happy with the results using 100% tung oil - NOT with additives!!!---first with a little mineral spirits to thin it out (small amount) to penetrate through and clean off old gunk. Wiped it down hard with a cheesecloth as per the CMP article. Next applied with a clean rag and let it soak until it came to the surface and THEN WIPE OFF THE EXCESS!!! I dried the wood parts using a lamp focused into a cardboard box and a cloth cover to make a heat box. This got just enough heat to advance the cure nicely. Third and subsequent wipes by rag and hand until the degree of gloss (should be minimal with tung oil, anyway) and results make you pleased. Others (Walt, I know) has done a great job with BLO also and I think Joe Scott has advised in past threads as he make replacement stocks. Note my opening statement below and enjoy the pursuit!! Happy New Year!!

John D.

diggerj Posted: Sep 17 2007, 02:23 PM

B.T. ---

I am far from an expert, but after digging into a web surfing on original finishes I came across: http://www.odcmp.com/Services/Rifles/wood_...ing_article.htm

It's a long article by the CMP and very scientific as well as considerate of collector values both personal and monetary.

Section 9. is the one most appropriate for the JSAR in my humble opinion and it calls out the use of only PURE Tung oil to clean and seal the wood. I actually cheated and used a first wash of tung oil (Pure) with a little mineral spirits to cut the grease, as it had been stored in an old shower curtain covered in it. Nothing else thereafter but pure tung oil, first 100% with the cheesecloth, then hand rubbed multiple times with wiping off of the excess.

I would sift through past threads here and further comments before using anything at all, especially anything which would not have been used (invented, even) in 1941.

Good luck and enjoy!!

John

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I think that product has beeswax in it and is a great product to use as a final treatment. It may be less penetrating for initial rehab than the Tung Oil unless the remaining "1/3" is a low viscosity diluent like orange oil. Bottom line is -- if it works, and is endorsed by a JSAR owner - give it a GO!

regards,

John D.

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Diggerj is absolutely correct, Tom's 1/3 Mix is a final treatment and not meant to be used as a replacement for blo or tung oil. Please pardon my oversight. :rolleyes: Thanks!

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