lemmy

Hey all, Not sure if this has been covered before, if it has, my apologies. I couldn't find anything in a search, but I do remember an in-depth thread on Johnsons in movies and TV that I also couldn't find. Anyway, I was watching a 1971 episode of Doctor Who (don't judge) and there were at least 4. Below are some stills I captured and a link to the episode. They show up around 19:50 https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x740m5s

Hi Ryche, The chamber insert seems like a good idea to test the magazine and feeding mods. At least if it doesn't work I didn't waste money on a barrel. Thanks

Hi all, I know this has been covered somewhat, but I couldn't locate it by using the search. I wanted to get some information on using .308. Main thing would be a barrel for .308, I'm sure I could come up with a Garand barrel to convert. Is there a better option? Does anyone produce new barrels for the Johnson? Next would be the magazine. I would assume a spacer is necessary. I first thought at the rear of the mag, but that would interfere with loading? Then I thought at the front with a slight ramp, or is that even necessary? Would anything else need to be changed? So, instead of re-inventing the wheel (and coming out with a square one) I thought I'd ask. Thanks

http://www.thefreelibrary.com/A+.308+that+does+it+all%3A+the+Daniel+Defense+DD5V1.-a0440401422 BEFORE WE HAD THE AR-15, we had the AR-10. The mid-1950s were an exciting time in the American military small arms world. Word was out that the U.S. Army wanted to replace the M1 Garand, so manufacturers scrambled to provide suitable candidates. In 1955, an outspoken Melvin Johnson worked alongside Eugene Stoner at ArmaLite. Stoner has long since been credited with designing the AR-10 and later the AR-15, but it was Johnson's eight-lugged rotating bolt that made Stoner's design possible. Johnson first patented his rotating bolt in 1937 and built a light machine gun around it that the Marine Raiders used in the Pacific during World War II. The rotating bolt locks into a steel barrel extension and contains all the pressure from firing a round. With the pressure contained by these small steel parts, the rest of the firearm can be made from lightweight material, like aluminum. The beauty of the Johnson/Stoner design is the simplicity, durability and light weight, all prized factors in any military firearm. The Army would ultimately select the M14 over the AR-10 in a politicized and hotly contested process. While the M14 has more history attached to its name, in my opinion, the AR-10 was a better rifle.

Hi, I was contacted by Joseph Scott and just received the parts and DVD. Everything was excellent. Thanks again for the help.

Hi I believe this to be everything in question and in the correct orientation. I'll speak just for the items I have, others may be different. I'm assuming these are the originals. The ejector has a chamfered recess on the top side for the head of the pin that holds the spring. This pin definitely has a head on it (or pin was pounded into the recess when installed) and should be driven out from the bottom with a punch so that the pin exits the top of the ejector. The spring pin diameter measures .065". The spring wire diameter measures .050". Hope this helps.

Hi, Thanks. No need for apologies, I was just looking to be pointed in the right direction as the usual mentioned suppliers didn't seem to have the spring. I appreciate the lead and will look in to it. Thanks again.

Hi, Looking for mainly the main spring/recoil spring. I contacted Jack First parts and they claim to have never had parts for 1941. Also tried Sarco and Numrich. From reading the suggestions on other posts, I tried to contact J. Scott first through the site's PM twice last month, but I haven't received a response. Being new here, I'm not sure if I have limited privileges, but it looked like the PM's went through. I guess that's another question, is there a probationary period on the forum with limited privileges? Thanks

Nice, nothing like live wires! I can't help it, I like knowing how things work. It's interesting seeing the different approaches taken to achieve the same action. Yes, I don't see an issue with the function of the gun itself as it would be within whatever up/down play there is in the hammer block groove that slides onto the receiver. There's no visible wear there, so I assume that's within spec. I just didn't want to stress the wood anymore than necessary. Thanks for the input.

Thanks, Yeah, I guess loosening and tightening the one screw isn't a big deal. I just didn't want to make a habit of it... sometimes I just like taking things apart to look at them.

Hi, Looking for some input on the tight fitting of an original buttstock. Not a big deal, but when I go to remove the hammer block pin (the one just behind the magazine), it is extremely tight and would require light prying to remove. If I loosen the front hammer block screw (the screw at the bottom front of the buttstock) a half a turn, then the pin is loose and can easily be removed. It looks as though the hammer block screw boss has made an impression into the wood over the years and tightening it when the rifle is assembled pushes the front top right edge of the buttstock into the receiver area where the hammer block pin goes. This then pulls the hammer block down and out of alignment for the pin. Again, it's not really a big deal and placing a thin fibre or nylon washer between the hammer block and buttstock at the front screw solves the problem. I've read many posts here that stress the point of making sure all the screws are tight and was wondering if I may be creating another problem when it comes under load. I guess my real question is, should I leave well enough alone and just loosen the front screw a half turn when ever I need to dissasemble? Thanks

Ryche_me, I'll check on the parkerizing with the vasaline. I already have the silica packs on hand. Thanks

I thought the cosmoline should work, I was just concerned about altering the color of the parkerizing. 50 items for ten years sounds like a pretty good track record for vaseline to me. Thanks

Thanks I was planning on using just some light oil, but was concerned about humidity levels. The humidity is normally ok, but I can't gaurantee it won't spike from time to time. That's why I thought grease might be better over time. I realize there will be some cleaning involved when the time comes to use them.

Hi, I would like to know if anyone has any experience or opinions on what grease to use for long term storage (1-2 years) that won't change the current color of parkerized components. I know some of the newer, high tech greases, have pretty strong dyes, red, blue, green and such. I would stick with a basic lithium grease, but I noticed when the oils seperate out of those, they are usually pretty dark. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks