Neil

That’s funny, guess who sent him those photos. Guess I should be more Johnny on the spot

I came across these photos and as a Johnson enthusiast I figured the group would enjoy as well. https://imgur.com/a/NFGxHji

Hello, I know the proper way to headspace Garand rifles and ‘03s, but how do you properly headspace a Johnson? Thank you Neil

Thank you, sir. I was over thinking it. I thought too hard and too long about the reciprocating barrel/bolt interaction and couldn’t come up with a good solution. Neil

Hello, I am looking for an original Johnson rifle barrel in military configuration (Original sight, bayonet lug and finish). My rifle has ‘made up’ Johnson barrel our of I think a Garand barrel. I’d like an original barrel to put in it. Thank you, Neil

The other day I was shooting my Johnson and firing M2 Ball HXP it was failing to eject. It extracted the round and then left it in the action area and would jam up because both the spent brass and new round were then trying to feed into the chamber. My assumption is a broken ejector, what do you think? If it is an ejector, where can I find another? Any guidance is much appreciated. Neil

Joseph, what could be done if it is a pitted chamber? Can it’s be polished? Thank you

If you have Amazon Prime, it’s free to watch. Thanks for sharing, I hope to watch it tonight

I was comparing the barrels on my Johnson rifles and noticed that the barrels were different. Are these both original barrels? I’m wondering if one is a "new" barrel by taking another barrel (like an '03 or M1917 barrel) and cutting it down and adding the bushings and barrel collar etc. I believe I’ve heard of that being done. Link to pictures: https://imgur.com/a/0ytCo

Good morning Rick, Thank you for the well thought out reply, but I'm going to insist that it's the fire control group. If I take the stock off the rifle and use my right hand to operate the trigger and use my left hand to operate (mimicking the action of the bolt) the hammer. When I pull the trigger, the hammer falls, keeping the trigger back and cocking the hammer back again and releasing the trigger forward the pressure to release the trigger is nearly identical to the weight to pull the trigger. So, I stick with it's a bump fire because if you pull trigger the recoil of the rifle causes it to move enough for the trigger to reset and be pulled again, unintentionally. Not trying to toot my own horn saying I'm an amazing shooter, because I'm far from it but I do exercise proper trigger pull/control and it happens to me as well as others. It has happened to my friends that I take shooting who have served in the military (Marines and navy).

Hello everyone. First post here on the Johnson message board, I was directed here a bit ago to see if someone could help me out with my rifle. My Johnson rifle seems to have an extremely light trigger pull/reset. This causes the rifle to bump fire very easily and unexpectedly. The best way I can describe this is, if it cycle the action and cock the hammer, pull the trigger and the hammer falls keeping the trigger depressed cycling the action (recocking the hammer) and slowly ease the trigger forward there is very little distance that the trigger travels until it resets and then very slight pressure causes the hammer to fall again. The trigger also seems to be a single stage trigger, instead of the typical two-stage trigger I am used to in '03s, Garands etc. As I mentioned, this has caused multiple 'double taps' because of this light reset. It happens to me and other experienced shooters. I have not fired another Johnson so, I do not know if the single stage trigger is normal or if it should be a two stage trigger similar to other military arms. So, is there an easy way to fix this issue myself? I know how to field strip the rifle but I do not know about how to take down the trigger group, any assistance in that would be appreciated. Thank you.

Thanks Brian, I'd been trying to pull it out to the rear. Followed your advice and it took ten seconds to get it out.

Does any one have any suggestions on how to do this? I am attempting to swap stocks and need to take the mainspring tube out of my old stock but can't seem to get it to budge. I don't want to damage the old stock and I don't know how durable the tube is. My first thought it to try and find a similar sized dowel and drive it out, but I don't know if itll damage the tube by attempting to do so Thoughts and suggestions are welcome. Thank you, Neil

I bought this off of Numrich and it was listed as original military forestock but when I received it, I was not so sure. Opinions?

Sorry, I just realized that I posted the same angle three times. I'll take pictures of the other angles tomorrow and edit the above post. Edit.... other pictures added. My concern is the contours of the fore stock, it seems too flat on the bottom and I was expecting it to be more round

Good afternoon Brian, The stock that's on my rifle I believe is a reproduction but I don't know who made it. The grain in the stock is beautiful but I'd really rather have a military stock on the piece. Also, the stock has some poor fit and finish, when inspected closely you can see that the screws for the sling swivel don't go in straight or flush and the same can be said for the trigger housing and butt plate. I'm also wondering if my trigger pull issue that I have another thread going on is related to poor stock fit?

I believe the stock on my rifle is new production, I am looking for an original military Johnson stock. Please let me know if you have anything. Thank you, Neil

I still seem to be having problems with my rifle and not a strong trigger reset. I've replaced the hammer and sear bar and it's the same problem. It's bad to the point that anyone who shots the rifle to the first time gets a double tap out of it due to the rifle bump firing.

Email on the way

Joesph, If I did this test as you described I believe it is not catching on this secondary sear. The way I did this test was: removed the stock from the rifle, held the hammer with some pressure and pulled the trigger and let the trigger go. Release pressure from the hammer (which should catch on the secondary sear?) and the hammer does not catch and falls. To reiterate the original issue, when the hammer is cocked and the trigger is pulled, the hammer falls. Keeping the trigger depressed and recocking the hammer with the other hand the pressure to release the trigger is about equal to the trigger pull. If this is a modified sear issue, are sears available, or am I looking for hens teeth?

Thanks Wayne, it'll probably be a couple days until I get to pull it apart. Are you a fireman? I'm a Captain on a ladder truck

Joseph, forgive my ignorance, but is removing the trigger group as easy as pulling the screws infront and behind the trigger and it dropping out?