Dutch2

Great job !! Maybe we can get together to the range and shoot each others for comparison, that would be great. Easy enough to switch barrels, I'll even let you try my .308 barrel.

That's just one of the reasons I only use hand loads in all my vintage guns, hand guns as well as long guns, especially anything semi auto, and it a lot of fun being able to tune the load to your gun.

I checked the screws in the fore end, they are common 8/32 threads, so you should be able to source them locally.

I have the Lyman reloading manual as well, but last year I also bought the latest Hornady and lo and behold, it even has a few pages for reloading for the M!-Garand

I took mine apart for comparison, the tail of the spring protrudes from the disc just a small amount and is bent inward, and since it is in the groove it slides right into the hole leaving the disc flat against the housing. I measured my spring, which I got from Numrich years ago since the one the rifle came with did not look that great. length : 18 mm, wire diam. 0.7 mm , 4 windings., sorry for the metric measurements, I'm from Holland and grew up with the metric system. Another thing that comes to mind, is the retaining collar in the back present and not binding, also in the very back where the firing pin protrudes there is a pivot point for the extension that goes to the main spring, on mine that pivot pin seems to have a relief in it to allow the firing pin to go through it, mine ends up in the wrong place sometimes seeing through the opening you can see the obstruction, swiveling the extension a few times the pin turns and the hole is clear and the firing pin can be inserted. Putting both halves of the bolt together, the firing pin spring keeps the firing pin retracted until pushed forward, so there you have a few things to check, hope that helps. I'll leave mine broken down so if you need any more info just let me know. Best regards, Herman

Since the JSAR was used in the South Pacific with lots of rain and a hot climate, I always wondered how well they lasted with all that heat and humidity, especially the main spring and tube inside the butt, one would think that water would get in there and had to be cleaned and oiled frequently.

As for all my guns, I handload for all of them, for the SVT40 i pull the bullets and dump the powder from milsurp ammo and use them in PRVI brass cases, I never shoot corrosive ammo in any of my semi's, hate having to take the gas system for cleaning. The SVT40 does leave a small dimple in the side of the case, but it gets fireformed at the next .firing, so no big deal. On the Llungman I just finished making a gas adjusting screw, looks promising but needs a bit more time at the range to be perfect, i do make sure to keep my fingers out of that action, only load it with stripper clips but only with the safety on!

Fascinating report, thank you ! It's too bad that politics got in the way, The Johnson would have been a great choice besides the Garand I own and shoot both, the Johnson always attracts a lot of attention at the range, mine especially since I usually bring both barrels, first I shoot the 7.62x51 barrel, than show the guys how easy it is to switch barrels and continue with the 30-06

Maybe the 7700 number was stamped in by a pilot or air traffic controller. 7700 happens to be the emergency transponder code on an airplane.

Too bad that didn't work out, maybe try silver solder instead of brazing if you are brave enough to build another one. Glad you found one on ebay,looks good now

It looks that where the inletting for the butt plate was at the top someone cut a triangular piece out and clued in a piece of wood. The inletting for the original butt plate will have to be redone, I did it on my Winfield after a lot of practicing on scrap pieces of wood, turned out OK.

No, it's the pin that holds the front of the magazine to the action. It is very much like the rear cross pin,has a tab on it that slips under locking spring to keep it from falling out,both items should be visible in the wood-cut out in front of the magazine,

I've noticed that the front take down pin and retaining clip are missing

For cleaning I use brake clean in spray cans, do it in well ventilated area though. All my fire arms I lubricate with Swiss "Automatenfett",it contains moly and stays put

Apparently some of the marines that used them in the South Pacific filed the sight and turned it into a V notch

No problem, I have a small lathe and milling machine, the problem is too many hobbies and lack of time, sailing/boating season approaching fast so working on the docks and boat lift..at the moment Probably a winter project for this guy.

Since bayonet lugs seem to be unobtainium I have been thinking about building one myself, keep posting on this project .

Great looking rifle,I made a lot of progress on mine but parts are becoming harder to get. Sarco used to have butt plates but are sold out and they haven't had bayonet lugs in stock for years. A good video to watch on Youtube is by mark Novak ,especially the part about the tube for the recoil spring. Anvil 058: Johnson Automatic Rifle

The recoil pad on mine had deteriorated and was already collapsed so I just scraped and ground it off, after removing the screws of course

Thanks for the tip,unfortunately they don't export.

Here is the progress I made bringing my Winfield back to its more or less original appearance. First locating the position of the cross bolt in the butt stock, took a lot of careful measuring, but managed to do it without buggering it up., carefully drilling out the plug on the right side and drilling the hole on the left side, driving the square key out and making a new one and threading it was a bit time consuming. Next I bought a butt plate and front sight from Sarco, had a rear sling swivel already, with a router carefully made the slot for the upper tang of the butt plate and the slot for the rear sling swivel, had to trim the butt plate a little since the Winfield stock is thinner than the original butt stock, but it looks not too bad. In the front handguard again I used the router to make the slot for the front cross bolt (cross bolt purchased from Numrich), fabricated the little spring clip to secure the cross pin in place, so all that is left now is finding a bayonet lug, machine the Winfield barrel after taking that front sight off and installing the front sight and the bayonet lug, hope to find one in the not to distant future. With the original front cross pin it sure makes it easy to remove the magazine as opposed to the drive in front pin that Winfield used. So far it's been a very rewarding project, and its a great rifle to shoot, it has the 30-06 barrel but someone in the past had a 7.62x51 barrel made for it as well, it works great with both.

I have been looking all over,Sarco , Numrich even ebay,no luck. Maybe i get ambitious one day and make one myself.

No luck so far on the bayonet lug, didn't mr. Joseph Scott have some made a year or so ago?

The spring spring should be 12 inches long,as they get old the may lose some of their tension and become shorter causing the extraction the be more violent and thus harder on the brass. Mine was about 11 1/2 " but I cheated and stretched it to just over 12" and the rifle cycles perfectly,the bras is not mangled ,the only thing is a small dimple left in the base from hitting the ejector. I just put the affected cases in the lathe and a quick touch up with a small file takes care of that.

Welcome from another newbie.