Teething Problems...

[Goodbye_Charlie 0]

A few weeks ago I got impatient waiting for the weather to break so I snuck in a couple of backyard test shots just to make sure my JSAR worked (It had not been fired for probably 20 years).

Well – yesterday I finally made it to the range and was able to play a bit.

This rifle is serious fun.

I went through about 50 rounds and let a few members test it as well.

Most of the members had seen pictures but never a real rifle – everyone was impressed by it. One member let me fire a Kel Tec RFB which was cool – but not as much fun.

Of course in all this fun – I didn’t really check my casings until I ran into problems….

• I fired manufactured rounds (Lellier & Bellot 150grs) – no cartridges failed
  
• The rifle didn’t jam and the bolt and action seemed to work smoothly.
  
• The rifle did fail to fire three times (loaded, pull trigger, click – no fire – recycled rounds fired fine)
  
• The barrel release latch popped out a few times.
  
• Looking at the casings – there’s a lot going on.
  
• The whole casing has light scrub marks especially at the neck and about 0.5” from the rim.
  
• The rim itself has been flattened and slightly bent by the extractor; on the opposite side is a major rectangular dent right on the edge (guessing about 0.040” x 0.080” and 0.008” deep)
  

I’ll probably have to take it in to a pro but I’d really appreciate any opinions.

Thanks

Ryan

[emmagee1917 0]

The rough brass surface and pull marks from the extractor indicate that your chamber is a little rough or pitted. An all too common problem with these guns. A polish job should clear those up. The mark on the opposite side of the rim is from the ejector. If it is too deep , it indicates your bolt speed is excessive when the case contacts it. Check to see if your mainspring needs replacing and possibly the barrel latch spring ( because you are having problems up there , too )

Chris

[Joseph Scott 0]

Put some oil on the barrel latch center pin/spring, on the latch keeper button, and on the rear collar. Push the barrel down slightly and put oil around the front collar also. Be sure the latch keeper buttom comes all the way out when closed. Since most of your rounds worked fine, you can try cleaning the chamber with a shotgun brush and bore solvent. To get a better idea of chamber condition, polish unfired rounds with Skotchbrite to remove nicks/scratches. When fired, look at cases with a magnafier for pulled brass from very fine pits. Measure your main spring length, should be 12", if less, it should be replaced. If you are not familar with details of the rifles, I have a DVD covering them.

[Goodbye_Charlie 0]

Thank you both very much!

The barrel latch spring seems to be in really good shape and the latch seems to function well so excessive bolt speed seems likely.

I will recheck the main spring; as the spring and spring chamber had quite a bit of corrosion and it seems to be the most likely culprit.

I have cleaned the chamber to the best of my ability - multiple times - so it's probably worth a trip to the gun smith at this point to have it professionally done. With the condition of the rifle as-found, I spent a lot of time cleaning and oiling while being careful to avoid over-oiling (which would be my most likely mistake).

I am definately interested in the DVD and possibly a replacement spring.

After I check the spring - I'll try the Skotchbrite trick and see if I need to make the trip into the city to find a good gun smith.

Thanks

Ryan

[Goodbye_Charlie 0]

Hi Guys,

I've had a chance to look things over.

My main spring looks original but it's only 10.5" long.

Also - on my firinng pin - the crimped spring stop is loose and the spring looks like it has been modified. (7/8" long).

Does anyone have any ideas how to re-crimp the ring onto the firing pin and if I should get a new firing pin spring?

Thanks!

Ryan

[Joseph Scott 0]

Your main spring has taken a set. Should be 12". New ones are $20 plus postage. To crimp the stop into the notches, position it and lightly tap directly over the notches with small hammer. You may need to use a small chisel to move metal into the notches. Don't deform the ring out-of round. The spring has a small tail which fits into a small opening in one of the flutes. Bend the tail up on other side of ring. 7/8" length is about right, be sure it moves freely on firing pin.

[Goodbye_Charlie 0]

Hey Joseph,

I appreciate the quick reply, I'm sorry I haven't been as quick to get back.

With your instructions I beleive I've fixed the firing pin - but my main spring is definately too short.

There is a main spring on gunbroker for abt $30 plus $15 shipping (to Canada) - most gun part compaines I know of seem to be out of stock right now.

Do you think it's worth it at that price or should I wait?

Thanks

[emmagee1917 0]

Wait for Joseph to get back to you. He has them . $20 beats $30 and $5-6 flat rate beats $15.

Chris

[Goodbye_Charlie 0]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for saving me the cash!

I have no idea about the availability of parts except what I find on sites.

Good gunsmiths and parts are rare enough up here – as soon as I mention it’s for a JSAR they look at me like I’ve got a third arm…

[metrotps 0]

Goodbye_Charlie do yourself a favor and order the instructional DVD along with your new mainspring. It's worth every penny IMHO.

[Goodbye_Charlie 0]

Thanks metrotps - sounds like a good idea!