Joseph Scott

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  1. I have new recoil springs made to spec for Johnson. $25 plus postage. Message me, Joe
  2. I used 12mm hones of 180 and 240 grit. There is a special honing oil but it usually comes in 5 gal buckets. Many times I just used running water to keep the stones clean. Remember you are having to remove most of the chamber wall to get down to bottom of pitting. Pitting is usually very small and can't be seen. You will have to push the hone down into the smaller diameter of chamber. Use 3/8 variable speed drill, move the hone up and down in chamber. The flex hone cutting carbide balls are mount on the end of steel wire. Do Not use the hones without inspecting that the wires are not coming out end of the stone balls. It scratches the chamber badly. A hone was usually good for two/ three jobs. Hone about 5 minutes, wash/clean barrel and oil, then test fire. Repeat as necessary (I have done as many a 7 repeats). This process will not change headspace. I have tried reaming to remove pits but it doesn't work and can alter headspace. I paid about $12-$16 for hones up to 5 years ago. Wholesale Tools of Tulsa was my source.
  3. Yes, chambers can be polished with small Flexhone. They are available at machinist supply stores in various grits. Search this site for chamber pitting and polishing from a couple of years ago. A real pain as you polish awhile, test fire and repeat until it cycles properly. Sorry, I am no longer doing this work.
  4. The ejector is very durable, located on left side of receiver. Push up the small pin and inspect the narrow lip which actually hits back of cases. I would suspect incomplete rearward movement with case not hitting ejector. An area to look at is heavy grease on main spring or bolt, or more common, a dirty or pitted chamber. Ejectors are available from several members.
  5. To the best of my knowledge, there were no US marked rifles. I have seen several fakes even one with 13 different stamps. Also heard of one, that owner had restamped parts numbers to all match. Saw one that had the "P" added under the grip. It takes some time to learn about Johnson's, best way to to look at as many as possible at big shows such as Tulsa or Louisville. On one of my first buys, I bought the story before I was knowledgeable, still have it as a lesson.
  6. Be patient, the person who usually posts information may be out of town.
  7. replied via messages
  8. There is no specific difference or location. The one with the "protrusion" is the latter version to aid in pulling them with rim of cartridges. I have new latter style pins for $15 ea. The early style finger could be broken off if the fit was tight and I suspect the latter version was to prevent this. Both the same is entirely proper.
  9. I have new butt plates and original screws for $30 plus postage. Message me, will reply after thksg.
  10. If the barrels have the original contour, they will weigh the same and have no effect on functioning. I have never seen or heard of a "heavy" barrel, or having a different contour (except the 7mm), remember gun is designed to function with bayonet attached.
  11. The one marked "J. A." with four/five digit number is factory original. I believe the one marked "JS" is one I made using a CNC contoured Shilen blank. Of all the aftermarket barrels I have seen, none were marked by the maker except mine. I worked from original blueprints and did not mark a barrel until after I tested fired it. Most commonly, replacement barrels were made from M1 Garand barrels.
  12. I will be downstairs with Johnson parts, three Johnson's and other military rifles to sell. Will be selling my 40 yr collection of Japanese 3- barrel flare guns and other rare Japanese items. Free Johnson inspections.
  13. Joseph Scott

    Do you have any buttstocks for sale or mainspring tubes?

    Bob Gorton

  14. I have some bolt catches left that I have fitted to my guns. $125 plus $6 postage. Satisfaction or exchange/return. Message me.
  15. Remove the front sight, turn front of barrel to diameter that just removes threads. Make a sleeve that is a slight press fit and length to half way between sight pins. Make it over size and slightly long, then turn it to diameter, when installed. When you install sight, the front pin will lock sleeve in place. This will hide the sleeve junction. Crown end and blue. Pins are 2/0 Morse taper. You will need to borrow or buy a tapered reamer.