Joseph Scott

I found the magazine well for your Dror kit and will send it to you. I also have the carrying handle somewhere. Price your kit accordingly.. Email me your address. Joe

With no front sight, I suspect it is drilled and tapped for a telescope. I once got a shortened barrel to strip for the collars because owner said muzzle blast was too intense. The forearm has no notch for a front pull pin (probably Winfield wood). Let's see what it sells for.

I have an idea what their image is showing. The stock screws normally have an internal star washer next to the head and then a special flat washer which threads onto the screw next to the wood. If you look at the screws, they have the threads cut away near the head, which allows the threaded washer to rotate and remain stationary against the wood , when tightening. Being threaded on, prevents loss of the two washers. A few early screws were slotted for a fiber insert to prevent loosening, similar to Nylock screws, It only worked for one time and they went to the reuseable lock washer arrangement. The image may be for one of these early inserts. I have seen one or two early insert screws which were never installed due to unsatisfactory loosening. Sometimes you see a screw with insert still in the slot but can't tell its original purpose as the fiber matches the threads. If you want that arrangement, cut a piece of flat Nylon slightly wider than screw diameter in addition to lock washers.

The magazine door pin should have the bent end (tab) turned inward. There is a small recess in end of stock for the tab. It appears that you need a recoil key for the fore end. Forearms don't normally split unless the bottom screws are over tightened. Each of the stock screws should have a flat washer against the wood and an internal star washer between the head and flat washer Without the lock washer the screws loosen and owners kept tightening them, hence split wood. I have recoil keys w/screws and stock screws with washers for $15/set. Extra washers are $1 ea. The split fore arm can be repaired with super glue which penetrates crack like penetrating oil. There were three different magazine appearances. Some polished, some "blackened" and some painted (to hide brazing which leaked out of joint). Same thing with rear sights. Johnson barrels usually have very tight muzzles because they were not cleaned with the jointed GI cleaning rod. Bad bores are common due to corrosive ammo of the period. If the serial number has no front letter, information on date of production and assembled parts may be available. Overall a nice buy.

My eyesight has improved enough that I will attempt to build several more bipods. I found the old remaining pieces and parts, just derusted them and will start assembly soon. I will have to contract out the welding. Hopefully I can get one finished in Feb. with three more later. My bipods are stamped "JS" under the feet and main part where hard to see.

I have not replied to inquires because I was blind for months. I could not see a computer screen, keyboard, cell phone numbers nor drive. I went too long between eye injections and blood got behind my retineas. I am now on monthly injections and have recovered most of my vision in one eye. A 28" monitor is now necessary for computer work. I do have bolt catches and stock bolts. Will answer your PM messages. Thanks for your patience. Joe

The 1939 drawing of the Johnson stock showed a door to a drilled hole. This was probably intended for tools if sold to the US military. The Dutch did not see a need for tools and ordered a solid butt plate to keep down costs. However the stocks were produced with the "tool" hole and another hole to lighten the weight of rifle. No tools were ever installed at the factory. Some have been added by various owners. Saw one posting showing a British tool set as "original Johnson", not so.

I have plenty of new butt plates for $25 plus $7.20 mail. Butt plate screws (originals) are $3 ea, the plates are stamped JS on the back inside. Message me.

I am not redoing any sporters due loss of vision in one eye. Joe

Show was well attended but sales were slow. Only couple of Johnson's on tables for sale, several at auction company displays. Did not see any bayonets. Sold a few parts but had no inspections such as I normally get. Sold most of my Japanese collection but had to cut price a bunch. I believe internet sales are hurting all gun shows. Tulsa is big on name brand (colt, etc) collectors and old western stuff. Young boys seem to know more from video games about WW2 weapons than their fathers . The fathers are from recent wars (Nam and later) and have no interest in older military weapons. Thanks for asking.

A loose washer can cause slam firing as the pin is not retracted (too far forward). Set the washer in position and using a small cold chisel, dimple metal back into the firing pin grooves. Use care not to split the ring. I was never able to find anything to replace the washer nor anyone to make them. Do not grease the firing pin, only use very light oil or it will not retract properly.

The Johnson design is known as "short recoil". The barrel is not fixed to receiver but moves back about 3/8"upon firing. As it and the engaged bolt move rearward, the bolt is rotated by a groove in top of receiver which unlocks it from the barrel. Because there are 8 lugs instead of two, the bolt only has to rotate approximately 20 deg to unlock, then momentum carries the bolt (with extracted shell) back where the case strikes the ejector (pivoted on left of receiver) to throw case away. Meanwhile the barrel has moved forward by action of the spring of the barrel latch. As the bolt strips a new shell and comes forward, the receiver groove rotates the bolt and locks it into the 8 slot rear lug of barrel, ready to fire. If you have a Johnson, push the barrel back and watch bolt unlock by rotation. If necessary, the gun can be used as a bolt action by manually lifting bolt and retracting it. The multi-lug bolt design has moved into many modern firearms.