Joseph Scott

If the pictures are good, the fact that is color is too uniform on all parts, raises doubts concerning refinishing. Varius parts that would normally show black are too gray. Glad to see prices increasing again.

The receivers were forged from high quality 6000 series steel. Likely first step was to fit in a jig to establish zero points and then drill through the bore. After drilling, the bolt way was broached on large double acting machines. These were extremely accurate and fast. Other broaches made other cuts much faster and more accurate than milling machines. Other cuts were made with a vertical shaper using jigs. There were many jigs which held the receiver for drilling through hardened bushings on gang drills, each hole or cut had its specific tool. The work books detailed each step, it tooling and sequence. These techniques were widely used and were probability as fast or faster than early CNC. There is a U-tube about making WW1 guns which show this means. Johnson hired the best engineers and designers who had years of knowhow. I have seen the receiver drawing and am amazed at the hundreds of dimensions on one drawing. The hand guard section was punched in the flat and then formed into shape, the mounting blocks for the screws were riveted in to hold shape. Likely the barrel latch was also installed at this time since shroud was easy to handle. The forged piece and the shroud were fitted into a custom welding machine which aligned and welded them together in less than a minute. The assembly was probably stressed relieved after welding as neither the receiver nor shroud were hardened. Internal parts were hardened as needed. As an mechanical engineer and machinist, I admire that such an organization and product came together so quickly and functioned so well. Comparing to the Garand which was years in design and had its early problems, then produced with unlimited gov. funds and had hundreds of special machines and thousands of people is not a fair comparison. Both weapons functioned well and met specs during wartime needs.

When measuring ID of lugs and sight, be sure there is no slight burr at entrances. Use same tool such as dial caliper to measure barrel steps. The lugs and sights are designed for a light press fit onto barrel, about .0005" to .001" tight. I have been sent used parts that were loose or had been knocked off with a hammer. If parts are loose on steps, you can prick punch all around steps to raise the effective diameter. To align lug, sight along bottom guide lugs and align bottom of lug with them. Use Loctite and let set 4-8 hours before reaming for taper pins (2/0 x 5/8 morse taper.) To align sight, slip it on end onto first pricks and install barrel into receiver and sight down top of receiver to insure sights looks straight up. Carefully remove barrel and put some Loctite on step and press to back of stop. Recheck alignment in receiver before Loctite sets. Use 12" cresent wrench to tweek alignment Let set, and ream for taper pins. If used parts, check carefully which side oridgnal taper entered from. If you use the wrong side and ream again, pins will be loose. Use Loctite on pins. If everything is correct pins will protrude equal on both side. If you have to buy longer pins, cut a little long with bolt cutter and grind end, then chuck in drill press and using file, round cut end. Be sure pins are equal length.

The front sight step is 1.375" from end. The bayonet step is 2" back from the sight step or 3.375" from end.

The m15x40 thread was common on lamp parts in the 1940's for very thin tubes. I have new springs. Message me. Joe

Most of the blueprints were damaged/destroyed in a flood of Mr. Johnson's basement. A few damaged ones belong to the Johnson estate. A reverse engineering process woud be necessary to recreate the gun.

I have new recoil springs made to spec for Johnson. $25 plus postage. Message me, Joe

I used 12mm hones of 180 and 240 grit. There is a special honing oil but it usually comes in 5 gal buckets. Many times I just used running water to keep the stones clean. Remember you are having to remove most of the chamber wall to get down to bottom of pitting. Pitting is usually very small and can't be seen. You will have to push the hone down into the smaller diameter of chamber. Use 3/8 variable speed drill, move the hone up and down in chamber. The flex hone cutting carbide balls are mount on the end of steel wire. Do Not use the hones without inspecting that the wires are not coming out end of the stone balls. It scratches the chamber badly. A hone was usually good for two/ three jobs. Hone about 5 minutes, wash/clean barrel and oil, then test fire. Repeat as necessary (I have done as many a 7 repeats). This process will not change headspace. I have tried reaming to remove pits but it doesn't work and can alter headspace. I paid about $12-$16 for hones up to 5 years ago. Wholesale Tools of Tulsa was my source.

Yes, chambers can be polished with small Flexhone. They are available at machinist supply stores in various grits. Search this site for chamber pitting and polishing from a couple of years ago. A real pain as you polish awhile, test fire and repeat until it cycles properly. Sorry, I am no longer doing this work.

The ejector is very durable, located on left side of receiver. Push up the small pin and inspect the narrow lip which actually hits back of cases. I would suspect incomplete rearward movement with case not hitting ejector. An area to look at is heavy grease on main spring or bolt, or more common, a dirty or pitted chamber. Ejectors are available from several members.

To the best of my knowledge, there were no US marked rifles. I have seen several fakes even one with 13 different stamps. Also heard of one, that owner had restamped parts numbers to all match. Saw one that had the "P" added under the grip. It takes some time to learn about Johnson's, best way to to look at as many as possible at big shows such as Tulsa or Louisville. On one of my first buys, I bought the story before I was knowledgeable, still have it as a lesson.

Be patient, the person who usually posts information may be out of town.

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There is no specific difference or location. The one with the "protrusion" is the latter version to aid in pulling them with rim of cartridges. I have new latter style pins for $15 ea. The early style finger could be broken off if the fit was tight and I suspect the latter version was to prevent this. Both the same is entirely proper.