Joseph Scott

Mailed Wednesday.

Yes, I have plenty left. Still $25ea. Same address, Add $7.95 postage. Joe

It is hard to compare as nobody seems to have shot the 38m due to rarity. What I know comes from You tube "forgotten weapons" Poland's WW2 Battle rifle".. It is also stripper clip fed, pull pin take down, and has few parts. Main spring on gas rod, tilting one piece bolt, very simple take down, fixed barrel. adjustable gas plug. Could take regular size bayonet. Look at the video and form your own opinion.

I know of five Johnson's for sale on the floor. Don't believe any sold. I sold one bayonet with scabbard. Inspected a nice all original rifle (first series 8000 range) for another vendor who was selling it for a friend. Found fine sand under the butt plate. This is the third one I have found with sand under BP. ; don't know source but may have come from a beach landing somewhere. Seller was going to ask $6300 for it. Don't know if it sold. Lots of people but slow sales overall. Saw a beautiful Polish firearms display including a super rare 8mm semi-auto rifle, one of 155 made before WW2. More information on line and You tube about Polish 38m rifle. A lot cleaner design than our M1. If it had got into volume production earlier, Germans would have had a harder time in Poland.

Very well done. A cross between animation and photography. I wish everything came apart that easy. Some of the riveted pins should not be removed as shown. I don't remember seeing the buffer disassembled (which sometimes needs cleaning). The barrel parts are a press fit onto tube, not easy to replace. Also the butt stock seems to be non original (only one hole). It would be nice if part numbers could be added. This video shows me how far behind computer skills I am.

I found the magazine well for your Dror kit and will send it to you. I also have the carrying handle somewhere. Price your kit accordingly.. Email me your address. Joe

With no front sight, I suspect it is drilled and tapped for a telescope. I once got a shortened barrel to strip for the collars because owner said muzzle blast was too intense. The forearm has no notch for a front pull pin (probably Winfield wood). Let's see what it sells for.

I have an idea what their image is showing. The stock screws normally have an internal star washer next to the head and then a special flat washer which threads onto the screw next to the wood. If you look at the screws, they have the threads cut away near the head, which allows the threaded washer to rotate and remain stationary against the wood , when tightening. Being threaded on, prevents loss of the two washers. A few early screws were slotted for a fiber insert to prevent loosening, similar to Nylock screws, It only worked for one time and they went to the reuseable lock washer arrangement. The image may be for one of these early inserts. I have seen one or two early insert screws which were never installed due to unsatisfactory loosening. Sometimes you see a screw with insert still in the slot but can't tell its original purpose as the fiber matches the threads. If you want that arrangement, cut a piece of flat Nylon slightly wider than screw diameter in addition to lock washers.

The magazine door pin should have the bent end (tab) turned inward. There is a small recess in end of stock for the tab. It appears that you need a recoil key for the fore end. Forearms don't normally split unless the bottom screws are over tightened. Each of the stock screws should have a flat washer against the wood and an internal star washer between the head and flat washer Without the lock washer the screws loosen and owners kept tightening them, hence split wood. I have recoil keys w/screws and stock screws with washers for $15/set. Extra washers are $1 ea. The split fore arm can be repaired with super glue which penetrates crack like penetrating oil. There were three different magazine appearances. Some polished, some "blackened" and some painted (to hide brazing which leaked out of joint). Same thing with rear sights. Johnson barrels usually have very tight muzzles because they were not cleaned with the jointed GI cleaning rod. Bad bores are common due to corrosive ammo of the period. If the serial number has no front letter, information on date of production and assembled parts may be available. Overall a nice buy.

My eyesight has improved enough that I will attempt to build several more bipods. I found the old remaining pieces and parts, just derusted them and will start assembly soon. I will have to contract out the welding. Hopefully I can get one finished in Feb. with three more later. My bipods are stamped "JS" under the feet and main part where hard to see.

I have not replied to inquires because I was blind for months. I could not see a computer screen, keyboard, cell phone numbers nor drive. I went too long between eye injections and blood got behind my retineas. I am now on monthly injections and have recovered most of my vision in one eye. A 28" monitor is now necessary for computer work. I do have bolt catches and stock bolts. Will answer your PM messages. Thanks for your patience. Joe

The 1939 drawing of the Johnson stock showed a door to a drilled hole. This was probably intended for tools if sold to the US military. The Dutch did not see a need for tools and ordered a solid butt plate to keep down costs. However the stocks were produced with the "tool" hole and another hole to lighten the weight of rifle. No tools were ever installed at the factory. Some have been added by various owners. Saw one posting showing a British tool set as "original Johnson", not so.