Joseph Scott
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To correct excess head space, the barrel must be machined. removed the rear collar, sight and lug. Machine the shoulder and rear of barrel back exactly .060" (one turn of collar). This puts the front sight back on top. You must also recut the extractor slot .060" deeper. Then you must make a spacer .060" thick and install it behind the center guide. Ream new pin location. Install rear collar, You can then ream chamber to correct depth head space. The entrance taper is 82deg, break the edge of chamber slightly. On occasion, I found it necessary to move collars 1/8" (.125"). Do not cut the front of rear collar, it doesn't work. Before starting, cut some round shims the diameter of shell base. Try .002, 005,.010" with the go gage and find out how excessive is the head space. Ream slow with lots of lube and test often. I am not doing any work or accepting orders due to blindness.
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Mr. Scott,
You seem to be the one man on here to get ahold of for parts. My Johnson semi autos magazine cover spring has snapped and I desperately need another. I was wondering if you had another for sale or could help me find one.
Thanks a million- Fraze
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Hi Joseph, I am hoping this message reaches you. I tried once before and it seems to not show up on here, I am also hoping you are doing well and would like to find out if you are currently making or have plans to make any stocks for the Johnsons. I can be reached at (443)883-0917, Please leave a message if i do not answer as i have been getting many Telemarket calls lately. Thank you for your time. Dave W email is itsmedavew@gmail.com
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Hello Joe,
This is Michael Roper....aka...M48TANKER. I may be in the market for one of your stock sets. Do you have any near completion? If so what is the price shipped?
Have you been able to locate anyone to buy your business? I would be interested but I'd have a lot to learn. I already own a Brown & Sharp #2A Milling machine and a South Bend 9 lathe. I'm a retired Custom Homebuilding Contractor with excellent woodworking skills and quite a bit of gunsmithing and mechanical knowledge.
Please let me know what's going on with you and your health issues. I wish you the best.
Michael Roper......"michaeleroper@comcast.net"
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That is a Remington 8 op handle. It fits but lets bolt rotate too much for proper lock-up of lugs.
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Butt plate and screws for 1941 johnson
(719)687-6749
Matt
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I hope your still out there J. Scott, this is an ugly beast without a butt plate!
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I have new ones for $25 plus postage. Message me.
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Use regular super glue in the crack. It will penetrate all way to bottom and will be stronger than the wood. Also the crack is unlikely to spread because the recoil is through the cross keys, not the bolt stop plate. You also pin the glued crack with 1/16" brass stock repair screw as used by our military. They are hard to find but work well.
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Joseph,
Do you have bolt latches for sale? If so how much? I tried one that measured .560 from the flat under the spring to the end. Not long enough for my sporter. Found a fellow who has one that is .640 but no spring. Do you have the spring? Thanks,
bigedac
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Yes, many were glued on. Take a butcher knife and small hammer and carefully split it off.
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I have found that the bolt catches were fitted to each gun during manufacture by varying the length of the little "finger" for proper operation. I believe that as the importer assembled guns after cleaning, some bolt catches fit and worked properly. If so, the gun was sold with a working catch, if the catch didn't work, it was left out and gun sold without a catch. Some years ago, I purchased quite a few of the discarded catches and found that the finger lengths varied from the drawing. Few of them were same dimension. By welding on the end of finger and bringing to correct length, they worked properly. The original fitting was required because the magazine internals have some axial movement. Bending the long portion of the catch works in some cases, but not always.
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I would have to see and handle the rifle to convince myself. 'Buy the gun, not the story' is always good advice.
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I have a friend who needs a new stock for his JSAR like the one I got from you. Could you give me contact info. I can pass on, please ? Thanks, John.
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All original forearms had the cut-out and cross-pin. Because the little spring which retained the pin was not available, it was common to install a blind (short) pin and make new wood cover it to keep it in place. The cross pin holds the magazine in alignment and is important to proper functioning. I used to make the retainers but no longer can see to do them. That little retainer had no part number and probably was considered part of the forearm from some supplier. If you have a cut out, the retainer is likely broken leaving part still attached to the wood with a small twisted nail. Save the nail. If anyone can find a 3/16" pin, with a spring loaded ball in the side, it would work. A short 3/16" roll pin would work also.