M48TANKER

Yuccacapt343, WOW ! is right. If there is anyone who wants a bayonet just like it, for the same price, I'll engrave "888" or "777" or "666" or whatever number you wish to have. I have enough bayonets to let one or two go.

Unless you've had the pleasure of examining a "Miltech" restored rifle up close, you just can't appreciate the attention to detail and quality built into each rifle. Well worth the money invested.

Recently restored stock and forearm for sale. Wood now has a coat of "Gunstock Wax" on it and appears a bit glossy in the photos. A light buffing with #4/0 steel wool can knock the sheen off if you want. Just a few photos here: (more photos available) Price: $700.00 includes shipping. Only metal is the rear sling swivel. Very interesting grain pattern.

A major auction house sold one several years ago for around $4800.00

Curious, Thanks for responding to my post. I do need another one. I sent you a PM. Thanks, M48TANKER

I'm going to assemble my own "new" barrel. I need a "barrel locking bushing" as shown here on Numrich Gun Parts. Does anyone have one or more for sale?

PM sent.

I have a Johnson bayonet for sale and I emailed "Bruce." Bruce lives in Canada and I have no idea of any customs or import/export laws which might apply. Can anyone say for sure if it's OK to ship a bayonet to Canada? I posed this question to Bruce and received no reply. Caution.

I went back and found this from Joe in response to a question about using "regular" 30.06 headspace guages.

Jason, First I'm not the expert. If Joe Scott reads this he can give you the best advice. The chamber polishing is usually the first thing to do after replacing the recoil mainspring with one which is a full 12 inches long. (available right now on Gunbroker ....make sure you get the one for the JSAR) Joe always advises to carefully inspect your fired cases. I believe he says to first polish the brass with some steel wool or emery cloth to make it uniform and shiney. Clean the chamber but Don't oil the chamber. Fire the round and then look for evidence of marks associated with pitting in the chamber OR a ring in the walls of the chamber. Even if polished it may still have pits or a scratch. A weak mainspring will allow violent extraction which can rip the case heads off. Rounds sticking in the chamber will exacerbate the problem. When a round is fired, the brass normally stretches a tiny amount but will shrink back in time to be extracted. If the mainspring is week or the ammo is too hot, the brass may not have time to recover it's original size. I'm not sure but I think an oily chamber will not help... but will hinder the process due to surface tension of the oil. Since the barrel is a sporter barrel the chamber may not be reamed quite right. Mr. Scott has advised that sometimes it takes quite a bit of polishing to achieve the desired result, but usually it will fix the problem. If your brass is stretching in length perhaps the roughness is just at the forward end of the chamber beyond the shoulder area.....be sure to include that area in your efforts. Let us know what fixes the problem.

Bruce, contact me: "michaeleroper@comcast.net"

Fraze, Some people have used various coil springs, but they just don't look "right." I have several extra magazine assemblies and none of them has the cover spring. I wish Sarco or Numrich would discover a few hundred stashed away!

Dawg180, Check your private messages.

It was bound to happen I suppose. I've decided to build a 1941 Johnson JLMG or a DROR look-a-like in semi auto. i would like input from some of you about the wisdom of starting such a build. I'm guessing it might take a long time to locate all the necessary parts. I'm leaning toward a 2nd pattern DROR because of the 8mm ammo. Unlike Israel once had, I don't have a stockpile of .303 ammo. I do have a bit of 8mm. Currently I own one 8mm DROR barrel and one 30.06 Johnson LMG barrel. With the possible help of the experts on here, perhaps I'll avoid some of the pitfalls. So which is the build you would do, a Johnson LMG or a DROR. Should I save myself all the fun of the construction process and buy one or the other?

Brian, Private Message sent.

Ryche, Thanks, I've been watching that auction, but having no idea what anything is worth, I had no idea whether it was a decent price or not? There is also a DROR 8mm bolt for sale at auction and it's not moving either. I wish I'd made a decision on exactly what to build before I went to Knob Creek earlier this month. The Creek is my best source of parts. I already have a JSAR which has been converted to vertical feed. I sort of hate to sacrifice that nice rifle. With no provenance, it's not highly valuable, but I still believe that it was done by some professional as a prototype. The work on the stock and rifle are just far above what the average Bubba is capable of doing. It's just crafted too well. I appreciate any and all suggestions and leads on parts. If you see something that is at a decent price just let me know. Or if you have something for sale then I might be interested in that also. So many fine firearms, and so little time. Mike

Thanks Brian, I've been intending on coming to NGD. I'm in Paducah, Kentucky so Louisville isn't that far from me. I do follow all your posts about that show and it appears to be a "must see" if you are interested in collectible firearms. What is the date for the June show?

Bob G. Check your email. TANKER

I watched this to the very end. The competition was fierce. In the end "ICE COLD" prevailed. Congratulations!

Brian, Thanks for the clarification. I was afraid this was going to happen....now I'm starting to want an LMG or look-a-like. I saw two DROR complete lowers at Knob Creek and just barely talked myself out of buying them. Only a near total lack of knowledge on these kept me from taking the plunge. But now I have the "bug." I just bought a DROR barrel in 8mm for possible future use in a project. If I could remember who the vendor was at Knob Creek who had the DROR lowers, I'd probably buy them now. My best bet is to save myself a lot of work and just buy one already built? Finding parts can be a long term endeavor. I do think I've got most of a JLMG rear sight which I purchased from Amish Bob at Knob Creek along with a few other odds and ends Johnson parts. Thanks Amish Bob!!! I appreciate your input Brian....you possess a wealth of knowledge.