M48TANKER

Art, the first picture is a "magazine retainer clip" for a variety of .22 rifles: Savage, Stevens, etc.

The second item is indeed a Johnson part, or most of a part. It's the retainer clip/spring for the front takedown pin just at the rear of the forearm.

I will venture to say that no 1941 Johnsons came from the factory with mounts and scopes. Any scope mount on a Johnson was sourced and installed by another entity.

Winfield Sporters and Deluxe Sporters often had scopes mounted on them. As I inferred before, some alphabet agency probably had the  "Cuban" Johnsons fitted with mounts and scopes. It appears that even those "Johnson scope mounts" had three "rings" on them.

If someone adapted a scope mount to include taking advantage of the dovetail of the original sight, then it might be said to be a "Johnson scope mount." But more properly called a scope mount which will FIT the Johnson rifle.

I have a couple of scope mounts that I've removed from 1941 Johnsons if anyone is interested.

I'm not sure either. If you look at the pictures of Johnson rifles being used in Cuba and during the Bay of Pigs fiasco, some of them do have scopes. If the US provided these scoped rifles clandestinely, the mounts and scopes were most likely sourced by whichever alphabet agency hosted the "invasion."

I was able to make a couple of the larger screws that hold the forearm to the barrel shroud. You are so right about time consuming! My lathe is an old Southbend 9 inch.

No DRO, no computer assist, just "seat of the pants."

I'm proud of the two screws which I made and I'm in the process of making a few more if I have time.

The smaller recoil check screws will be a bit more of a challenge. I'll let you know how that works out.

I wish we knew of a supplier who could furnish these screws in the correct head type. They are probably "out there" if we knew where to look.

Rarecat,

I'll be sure to let you know. I'm going out to my shop right now to see if my machining skills will allow me to make some of these screws. I've made larger ones and threaded barrels, but when things get tiny my eyes deceive me.

Hey fellows,

I'm almost finished with another Winfield Deluxe Sporter stock conversion to Military stock and forearm configuration. Being a retired Custom Home Builder, cabinet maker, and career wood worker, I really enjoy reshaping and refinishing these stocks. I was fortunate enough to acquire three more unfinished Winfield Deluxe stocks and one of them already had the recoil tube hole drilled. I'm using some of my spare parts to complete the stock and forearm assemblies. I've installed the complete recoil tube and mainspring/buffer/follower/end cap. The buttplate has been in-letted and fitted. The sling swivel is in place, as well as the trigger guard, and recoil stops front and rear.  I have an extra complete trigger/hammer/sear block assembly and that too is in place with all the correct screws. The only things I'm needing are the screws for the forestock: the recoil stop screws and the screws that attach the forestock to the action.

I want to make this set of furniture as complete as possible for the next person who wants to re-militarize their Winfield Sporter. I will be open to selling only what the person needs: For example if you don't need the sear block/trigger/hammer assembly or the trigger guard, you won't have to purchase those.

TMALSS:(to make a long story short)........I really want the front forearm recoil stop screws and the screws that hold the forestock to the action.

Rarecat,

I'm glad to hear that your package finally surfaced. I, personally, will think twice about how much insurance I put on future packages. In the past I've under insured most all shipments, in favor of reducing cost...but no more!

I got the photo from Numrich/Gun Parts web page. I did get it from the LMG section but in looking back I notice the schematic for the JSAR shows the same configuration. Probably just a matter of convenience.

I'll bet that the other photos shown in this thread are more correct. Numrich's schematic photo is a bit vague anyway.

Posting a better picture for future reference:

The best I could do on short notice:

Good Job NewJohnny!

Now when you reassembly the gun, put the pushpin in and then rotate it clockwise to the TOP. It's meant for you to be able to move it with the tip of a bullet. A lot of military firearms depend on you being able to work on them with the point of a bullet. The hole in the front right of the forearm is large enough to insert a 30.06 bullet tip in order to remove the barrel. The magazine cover door's hinge pin should be positioned so that the "L" on the rear of the hinge pin is horizontal and fits into a groove in the right front of the stock.

Push t

.

I believe these two screws will allow the stock to be pulled straight down. The rear trigger guard screw just goes into the stock and not usually any metal.

Here is the front takedown pin with it's tab slid behind the retainer. Sporters usually have an un-notched forearm which covers a shorter pin.

If you can get the rear pin to rotate, and there is no tab attached, you'll just have to get a grip on the remnants of the pin to pull it out. It might be a bit difficult if it has not been removed in a decade of so.

There could be a small section of the lifting tab still on the pin head. Try rotating both directions to see if a piece of the tab is still there jamming the takedown pin from rotating any further.

Another angle to show the takedown pin with the lifting tab swiveled toward the front and behind the retaining area of the receiver.

There should be a takedown pin located at the point indicated in the attached picture. Sometimes the little tab on the pin is gone. You may have to use a pick of some sort to grab what's left of the pin to pull it out.

Art is certainly right. I left Vietnam in August of 1970. Just before leaving I had shipped home a couple of large Oriental paintings. They showed up at my home in the USA almost exactly one year later.

M48TANKER

Frank,

I've had a couple of things temporarily misplaced by delivery services and it's very frustrating. On the occasions I've experienced, the packages "appeared" once questions began to be asked. Let's hope your's will show up too. The quicker you act and the more noise you make about it, the better your chance of recovery. I also had one package that the tracking number showed it got shipped from the seller directly back to the seller....but it showed up at my house a day later? The tracking number stayed the same but with no update, so what the heck happened? I suspect an internal error with no employee wanting to accept responsibility for the goof!

If the package is really gone, don't despair yet. I've been working on "re-militarizing" a  Winfield stock and forearm. The reshaping of both the rear stock and forearm turned out well and the stain is drying as we speak. Currently the rear stock is populated with all the metal including the sear block and trigger assembly....technically ready to slide back on a rifle and shoot.

I may offer it "For sale" with all the parts attached: Butt plate, recoil check bars and screws, trigger guard and complete sear block/trigger/hammer group, as well as the recoil tube with spring/follower/and buffer cap with new spring. 

Or I can remove some of the parts and sell the stock and forearm stripped. Keep me posted on your situation. I intend to notify the Johnson Message Board group when the finish is dry and complete.

Mike

There is just something intrinsically wrong with this auction. Without casting stones at anyone, whether it be the buyer, would be buyers, or the seller...I've got to say that there must be more to this story than we are aware of? Perhaps decimal points got misplaced...that would make some semblance of congruity.

Maybe the whole auction was an exercise in misdirection to prove some point. You know, several friends get together to try to baffle and befuddle the collector community. However this approach might still prove expensive in taxes, fees, and the seller's reputation. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to do just a little bit of research before spending $2195.00 including shipping on some piece of Military paraphernalia. We all know that simply because someone offers an item and states very clearly that it's "original and correct" doesn't mean that a "mistake" hasn't been made by someone.

Hmmm...another possible scenario just occurred to me: The item is supposed to be " FROM THE PERSONAL COLLECTION OF RICK CROSIER" (whoever that is...I really confess to my ignorance). Let's just suppose that two nephews both thought that they would inherit the bayonet. Then neither of them actually inherits it. They both feel cheated and are determined to own Uncle Rick's "original and 100% correct" item. So a bidding war starts based solely on possession and not on originality. I've seen it happen. 

At least the seller states that: " All Sales include three-day inspection privilege, if returned in the same condition as received, buyer pays return shipping. I pay Gunbroker fees even if decide not to keep the item you bought, therefore REFUND WILL BE LESS THAN FEES AND SHIPPING charged by Gunboker.

Now the buyer still has a chance to recoup most of the money.

Then again...perhaps I should just mind my own business.....Hehehe.

I agree with Joe. Everything about this bayonet screams "REPRODUCTION".....To me anyway.

I would have stopped bidding at about $80.00 and that is only if I needed another bayonet.

There are SEVERAL things to look for to determine if the bayonet is original and this one fails every test...in my opinion.(which is worth exactly what you paid for it, nothing)

Of course I was technically "wrong" one time. I was actually just "mistaken" about my original declaration of disbelief, and my original statement proved to be "correct."

Take a very close look at this one: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/899230283

To me this is what a true original looks like.

I'll confess to now owning Brian's Old Custom Sporter and it's sure a beauty. Brian had adorned it with checkered wood instead of what's pictured in this topic. I would LOVE to have the original carved custom stock or one just like it.

Also, I'm the lucky guy who bid on and won that forestock in the picture. Got it pretty cheap.

The rifle is chambered in .270 according to Brian. There is a story behind that broken stock from days of old. It occurred during shipping or so I read in one article. I believe it was used in one of the North Western states to hunt moose? I'll try to find the article which had the information.

Metrotps,

I agree with the "One shot/one kill" suppressor for sniper type use.

Whether it's original or not, it's hard to say. However that "wrist" area looks REALLY strange to me! If fact, I believe I've seen that stock on a rifle before somewhere on the internet.

I doubt that there is enough wood in that area to ever return it to a more pleasing original looking piece.

I hope Walt chimes in soon! I have some reservations also.

I think I've figured it out!

Mr. Johnson was actually giving Mr. Lawrence a complement on his golf game. Having just made a "Hole-in-one" during a golf game with Melvin Johnson, Henry proved he could "put them in accurately." Melvin was expressing his desire to be more accurate at golf.

Sometimes it's better to remain silent and be thought an imbecile, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt.

16 hours ago, M48TANKER said:

Also the "split spring pins" holding the front sight and bayonet lug on the barrel are definitely wrong. They should of course be solid "taper pins" and would have made the rifle far more pleasing to the eye. (of the beholder)

One problem that comes with filling your brain up with "facts" ....is that you are often at a loss for the exact word. Most people call these: "ROLL PINS" instead of "split spring pins"

Although "Spring Pin" can be a substitute when your brain is foggy.

I just hate it when I am at a loss for the right word, that's why we have Wikipedia.

Now, here is the proper fastener for the front sight and bayonet lug on a 1941 JSAR:

Installation of taper pins is best done using the correct tools:

Joe Scott has posted a great tutorial on the installation of taper pins along with the correct diameter and length.

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