Joseph Scott

Very well done. A cross between animation and photography. I wish everything came apart that easy. Some of the riveted pins should not be removed as shown. I don't remember seeing the buffer disassembled (which sometimes needs cleaning). The barrel parts are a press fit onto tube, not easy to replace. Also the butt stock seems to be non original (only one hole). It would be nice if part numbers could be added. This video shows me how far behind computer skills I am.

I found the magazine well for your Dror kit and will send it to you. I also have the carrying handle somewhere. Price your kit accordingly.. Email me your address. Joe

With no front sight, I suspect it is drilled and tapped for a telescope. I once got a shortened barrel to strip for the collars because owner said muzzle blast was too intense. The forearm has no notch for a front pull pin (probably Winfield wood). Let's see what it sells for.

I have an idea what their image is showing. The stock screws normally have an internal star washer next to the head and then a special flat washer which threads onto the screw next to the wood. If you look at the screws, they have the threads cut away near the head, which allows the threaded washer to rotate and remain stationary against the wood , when tightening. Being threaded on, prevents loss of the two washers. A few early screws were slotted for a fiber insert to prevent loosening, similar to Nylock screws, It only worked for one time and they went to the reuseable lock washer arrangement. The image may be for one of these early inserts. I have seen one or two early insert screws which were never installed due to unsatisfactory loosening. Sometimes you see a screw with insert still in the slot but can't tell its original purpose as the fiber matches the threads. If you want that arrangement, cut a piece of flat Nylon slightly wider than screw diameter in addition to lock washers.

The magazine door pin should have the bent end (tab) turned inward. There is a small recess in end of stock for the tab. It appears that you need a recoil key for the fore end. Forearms don't normally split unless the bottom screws are over tightened. Each of the stock screws should have a flat washer against the wood and an internal star washer between the head and flat washer Without the lock washer the screws loosen and owners kept tightening them, hence split wood. I have recoil keys w/screws and stock screws with washers for $15/set. Extra washers are $1 ea. The split fore arm can be repaired with super glue which penetrates crack like penetrating oil. There were three different magazine appearances. Some polished, some "blackened" and some painted (to hide brazing which leaked out of joint). Same thing with rear sights. Johnson barrels usually have very tight muzzles because they were not cleaned with the jointed GI cleaning rod. Bad bores are common due to corrosive ammo of the period. If the serial number has no front letter, information on date of production and assembled parts may be available. Overall a nice buy.

My eyesight has improved enough that I will attempt to build several more bipods. I found the old remaining pieces and parts, just derusted them and will start assembly soon. I will have to contract out the welding. Hopefully I can get one finished in Feb. with three more later. My bipods are stamped "JS" under the feet and main part where hard to see.

I have not replied to inquires because I was blind for months. I could not see a computer screen, keyboard, cell phone numbers nor drive. I went too long between eye injections and blood got behind my retineas. I am now on monthly injections and have recovered most of my vision in one eye. A 28" monitor is now necessary for computer work. I do have bolt catches and stock bolts. Will answer your PM messages. Thanks for your patience. Joe

The 1939 drawing of the Johnson stock showed a door to a drilled hole. This was probably intended for tools if sold to the US military. The Dutch did not see a need for tools and ordered a solid butt plate to keep down costs. However the stocks were produced with the "tool" hole and another hole to lighten the weight of rifle. No tools were ever installed at the factory. Some have been added by various owners. Saw one posting showing a British tool set as "original Johnson", not so.

I have plenty of new butt plates for $25 plus $7.20 mail. Butt plate screws (originals) are $3 ea, the plates are stamped JS on the back inside. Message me.

I am not redoing any sporters due loss of vision in one eye. Joe

Show was well attended but sales were slow. Only couple of Johnson's on tables for sale, several at auction company displays. Did not see any bayonets. Sold a few parts but had no inspections such as I normally get. Sold most of my Japanese collection but had to cut price a bunch. I believe internet sales are hurting all gun shows. Tulsa is big on name brand (colt, etc) collectors and old western stuff. Young boys seem to know more from video games about WW2 weapons than their fathers . The fathers are from recent wars (Nam and later) and have no interest in older military weapons. Thanks for asking.

A loose washer can cause slam firing as the pin is not retracted (too far forward). Set the washer in position and using a small cold chisel, dimple metal back into the firing pin grooves. Use care not to split the ring. I was never able to find anything to replace the washer nor anyone to make them. Do not grease the firing pin, only use very light oil or it will not retract properly.

The Johnson design is known as "short recoil". The barrel is not fixed to receiver but moves back about 3/8"upon firing. As it and the engaged bolt move rearward, the bolt is rotated by a groove in top of receiver which unlocks it from the barrel. Because there are 8 lugs instead of two, the bolt only has to rotate approximately 20 deg to unlock, then momentum carries the bolt (with extracted shell) back where the case strikes the ejector (pivoted on left of receiver) to throw case away. Meanwhile the barrel has moved forward by action of the spring of the barrel latch. As the bolt strips a new shell and comes forward, the receiver groove rotates the bolt and locks it into the 8 slot rear lug of barrel, ready to fire. If you have a Johnson, push the barrel back and watch bolt unlock by rotation. If necessary, the gun can be used as a bolt action by manually lifting bolt and retracting it. The multi-lug bolt design has moved into many modern firearms.

If the pictures are good, the fact that is color is too uniform on all parts, raises doubts concerning refinishing. Varius parts that would normally show black are too gray. Glad to see prices increasing again.

The receivers were forged from high quality 6000 series steel. Likely first step was to fit in a jig to establish zero points and then drill through the bore. After drilling, the bolt way was broached on large double acting machines. These were extremely accurate and fast. Other broaches made other cuts much faster and more accurate than milling machines. Other cuts were made with a vertical shaper using jigs. There were many jigs which held the receiver for drilling through hardened bushings on gang drills, each hole or cut had its specific tool. The work books detailed each step, it tooling and sequence. These techniques were widely used and were probability as fast or faster than early CNC. There is a U-tube about making WW1 guns which show this means. Johnson hired the best engineers and designers who had years of knowhow. I have seen the receiver drawing and am amazed at the hundreds of dimensions on one drawing. The hand guard section was punched in the flat and then formed into shape, the mounting blocks for the screws were riveted in to hold shape. Likely the barrel latch was also installed at this time since shroud was easy to handle. The forged piece and the shroud were fitted into a custom welding machine which aligned and welded them together in less than a minute. The assembly was probably stressed relieved after welding as neither the receiver nor shroud were hardened. Internal parts were hardened as needed. As an mechanical engineer and machinist, I admire that such an organization and product came together so quickly and functioned so well. Comparing to the Garand which was years in design and had its early problems, then produced with unlimited gov. funds and had hundreds of special machines and thousands of people is not a fair comparison. Both weapons functioned well and met specs during wartime needs.

When measuring ID of lugs and sight, be sure there is no slight burr at entrances. Use same tool such as dial caliper to measure barrel steps. The lugs and sights are designed for a light press fit onto barrel, about .0005" to .001" tight. I have been sent used parts that were loose or had been knocked off with a hammer. If parts are loose on steps, you can prick punch all around steps to raise the effective diameter. To align lug, sight along bottom guide lugs and align bottom of lug with them. Use Loctite and let set 4-8 hours before reaming for taper pins (2/0 x 5/8 morse taper.) To align sight, slip it on end onto first pricks and install barrel into receiver and sight down top of receiver to insure sights looks straight up. Carefully remove barrel and put some Loctite on step and press to back of stop. Recheck alignment in receiver before Loctite sets. Use 12" cresent wrench to tweek alignment Let set, and ream for taper pins. If used parts, check carefully which side oridgnal taper entered from. If you use the wrong side and ream again, pins will be loose. Use Loctite on pins. If everything is correct pins will protrude equal on both side. If you have to buy longer pins, cut a little long with bolt cutter and grind end, then chuck in drill press and using file, round cut end. Be sure pins are equal length.

The front sight step is 1.375" from end. The bayonet step is 2" back from the sight step or 3.375" from end.

The m15x40 thread was common on lamp parts in the 1940's for very thin tubes. I have new springs. Message me. Joe

Most of the blueprints were damaged/destroyed in a flood of Mr. Johnson's basement. A few damaged ones belong to the Johnson estate. A reverse engineering process woud be necessary to recreate the gun.

I have new recoil springs made to spec for Johnson. $25 plus postage. Message me, Joe

I used 12mm hones of 180 and 240 grit. There is a special honing oil but it usually comes in 5 gal buckets. Many times I just used running water to keep the stones clean. Remember you are having to remove most of the chamber wall to get down to bottom of pitting. Pitting is usually very small and can't be seen. You will have to push the hone down into the smaller diameter of chamber. Use 3/8 variable speed drill, move the hone up and down in chamber. The flex hone cutting carbide balls are mount on the end of steel wire. Do Not use the hones without inspecting that the wires are not coming out end of the stone balls. It scratches the chamber badly. A hone was usually good for two/ three jobs. Hone about 5 minutes, wash/clean barrel and oil, then test fire. Repeat as necessary (I have done as many a 7 repeats). This process will not change headspace. I have tried reaming to remove pits but it doesn't work and can alter headspace. I paid about $12-$16 for hones up to 5 years ago. Wholesale Tools of Tulsa was my source.

Yes, chambers can be polished with small Flexhone. They are available at machinist supply stores in various grits. Search this site for chamber pitting and polishing from a couple of years ago. A real pain as you polish awhile, test fire and repeat until it cycles properly. Sorry, I am no longer doing this work.

The ejector is very durable, located on left side of receiver. Push up the small pin and inspect the narrow lip which actually hits back of cases. I would suspect incomplete rearward movement with case not hitting ejector. An area to look at is heavy grease on main spring or bolt, or more common, a dirty or pitted chamber. Ejectors are available from several members.

To the best of my knowledge, there were no US marked rifles. I have seen several fakes even one with 13 different stamps. Also heard of one, that owner had restamped parts numbers to all match. Saw one that had the "P" added under the grip. It takes some time to learn about Johnson's, best way to to look at as many as possible at big shows such as Tulsa or Louisville. On one of my first buys, I bought the story before I was knowledgeable, still have it as a lesson.

Be patient, the person who usually posts information may be out of town.