Joseph Scott

I have seen several chromed pieces and believe they were done by Winfield to restore correct dimensions. The chromed edges of thecenter guide is more common.

New butt stocks (prefitted/presanded) are $325, forearms are $125. Add $60 for staining and finishing. I accept check or money orders. See messages for address. Joe

I have a local lead on someone interested in the Johnson parts business. will meet with them soon. Joe

There were seven Johnson's for sale at the Tulsa show. Asking prices varied from $4750 up to $15,000. One dealer had three he just acquired the week before, two restored and one pretty nice original. Asked 10k for restored ones and 15k for unrestored. Another 10k gun had one of my stocks on it and seller said price was high because he didn't want to sell. I repaired one which was a mess, Broken door spring, magazine assembled wrong, no pull pins, no pin retainer and the main spring was totally rusted into the recoil tube, stock shaved/, refinished. Another one I looked at, I could not get apart due to back of frame bent together. No bayonets seen. No gun sold that I know about. In my experience, low numbers don't seem to be bring more. Sorry about the underlining but I am on a motel computer and don't know how to remove it.

i have one of the 23 rifles listed for paramarines on Guaducanal and no parts match the list except the receiver.. Rifles matching the parts list are rare due to tear-down, inspection. reassembly by Winfield Arms importer. The Chilean imports by Navy Arms are more likely to match the list.

If you are feeling sharp edges on the lugs or at the chamber entrance, try a jeweler's file to smooth them. I have seen some rear collars that had "hammered" lugs creating burrs. The chamber entrance should have a slight bevel. It might require removing the rear collar to clean things up. If so, soak the inside threads with penetrating oil for a couple of days first.

Some years ago I had a 7mm with similar problem. Turned out to be a ring in the chamber just at the end of the straight length before shoulder. Hard to find but finally lapped it out and barrel cycled fine. Polish some unfired brass with Skotch Brite and inspect with magnifier after firing. Seems like a classic chamber problem.

I have not responded to emails and messages because my computer mother board died and I could not access the email or website. Have new computer and was able to have my hard drive date transferred. On stocks, my order for blanks to the mill was lost in fire in their local post office. Finally got it straightened out but lost my place tin line for wood. Hopefully 3-4 weeks I will have blanks, then 1-2 weeks to complete six orders.

Brian, many years ago, I was contacted by a retired US navy captain who wanted a cheap Johnson ($100 range) who said he had been the person who bought the rifles for the rebels from a large dealer in the west. No details on the rifles and I don't remember the person's name. Just a side note on the convoluted story.

I am awaiting new blanks from the mill and am out of stocks at this time. Hope to get blanks and make stocks late august. I have four requests for new stocks. Thanks, Joe

I will continue to sell new wood (currently waiting on blanks) and existing parts. We are looking for a gunsmith to take over the Johnson restoration business. Ed found someone whom I plan to visit this summer and talk with. I have a lot of original parts, dozens of factory gages, and lots of jigs and fixtures to make parts that I will try to inventory this summer. It has been more than fun and I have met hundreds of nice people over the years. PS- my old land line number is out of service. Joe

Alasdair, I am no longer redoing rifles due to a permanent vision problem. Sorry about the delay in answering but I have been traveling. Joe

I have a number of originals and they vary on fit. Orignals were hand filed after machining. Hardness was important and every one was hardness tested, you can see the small diamond impression on the insde. I don't trust imported parts from that source. A small drop of oil on each side helps when they flex.

Inspect the lower center pin of the handle and be sure the outer center pin retracts the lower pin and it returns downward. They are separate parts. A disk on the upper pin fits in a notch of the lower and a spring returns them down. I have seen the lower pin broken at the notch and not moving properly.into the extractor and bolt. If broken,, you will have to make a tool to unscrew the retaining cap.. Inspect the bolt catch also.

The big Wanamaker Tulsa show will be April 11-12. I will be downstairs at island 12LA (row 12 lower level,, row a) with three Johnson to sell, parts, and other military rifles. Come visit and bring your Johnson for free inspection.

Looks like a nice complete gun. I think the wood has been refinin\shed lightly. How does it shoot? If you need take down, inspection, etc, information, I have a 1hr-36m DVD for $30. Message me.

The barrel should be marked J.A.,( Johnson Automatics), not JS (Joseph Scott) which is my marking. I also do not put any serial numbers on my barrels. My wood is stamped JS on each end.

I will try to bring one.

It was made for the civilian light weight sporters after the war. It is possible that someone tried putting one on a military barrel or used one of the sporter barrels to replace a bad military one.

I made nine sheet metal style bipods per original blueprints and two of the early BAR style. Each was stamped "JS" in several places. Ed arranged for me to examine a known original for several weeks. The welding was rather rough and not professional looking. When they were made, appearance was not greatest factor. When I see wartime products made to modern quality, I examine it very closely. I have one in progress but can't finish it due to time and eye problems.

Use a steel hammer to set rivet. Other metals will not move steel and will leave the softer material on head, Don't remember guns by serial numbers and keep orders for only one year, sorry.

The rivets on the bayonet were installed with a special riviting machine called an orbital riviter. It hits many small hits ans goes around in an orbit to set the head. Don't know anyone who has one nowadays. An small air hammer might work but I would practice a lot first.

The pins for lug and sight are taper pins, #2/0 Morse taper x 5/8" lg. You will need to ream with the proper taper reamer after installing parts. If you are using original parts, test fit pins or reamer to determine which side they enter. The lug faces bottom. Align the sight by looking down receiver with barrel installed. When it looks straight, set it. You can sometimes find the pins at hardware stores but usually 1" lg. Cut to length and round cut end with file. Cold blue or repark. Front sight step is 1.375" from muzzle and lug is 2" back of that.

I think the short plastic oiler is for M14. Definitely not original.

They just snap into place over the hammer. However, I have found that they were individually fitted. Not all work in every rifle. Be sure it has the little spring still on it. If it doesn't work, I have them also.