dash

Heya Mitch, these are just like the Tapco tool I have, so there's no reason to think that either wouldn't work too... http://www.milsurpst...=TLF001&cat=122 http://www.midwayusa...ion-tool-fn-fal I made attempts in the past with a large srewdriver, but I couldn't get enough force to break it loose. Plus, I was worried about the blade not staying in the slot and buggering up something.

Finally finally finally got the recoil spring out! Took a wee bit of thinking, but it worked. I was pretty sure the FAL tool that's used to remove the pistol grip nut would also fit the slots and sure enough it did. Had my father hold the stock while I turned the tool with some box end wrenches looped over the t-handle for extra leverage. The spring is only 11 1/2" long...I know spec is 12" and the spare spring I have is 11 7/8" and is obviously stiffer. Can the 11 1/2" still be used without ill effects? I do plan on using the 11 7/8", but wow is the tube filthy.

That was the last thing on the gun I had to get apart and clean. I was worried I couldn't get it apart because it was rusted, but it looks like it's only old grease in the tube. In the meantime, I'll put it back together with the 11 7/8" spring after the cleaning and then get it to the range again. At least it'll come apart easily next time. Always a fan of spare anythings, so Mr Scott may get a PM about a new spring.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=253333465 Only $62,000.00

Both vids are great, but I don't know which I prefer more...seeing bowling pins fall or hearing the Johnson bark. There is another video of someone shooting steel plates in the distance. I really like hearing that ring.

The firing pin in mine was binding as well. I was able to straighten it, but went ahead and purchased a spare just in case. Apparently it had been that way for a while by looking at the wear. I'll have to compare the length of both. So what would cause a bent firing pin?? Sure enough,they are different lengths. The one currently in is D4550 and the slightly longer replacement is 5932. It is interesting though, that D4550 has 2 sets of the indents that the collar is squeezed into. Mind you I'm eye balling these, but from one end to the other, everything is just a knat's eyelash off.

Saw a JSAR at the Tampa show today for $7500. Serial was A4666. Was not able to take it apart due to the zip ties, but if what I saw at the muzzle was any indication, then the bore is mighty nice. It had a #2 stock that was cracked directly behind the magazine...seem to see that alot, and while in nice shape, it seemed a little too glossy. The magazine, while park'd, didn't have the same color as the rest of the gun - kinda looked frosty. The cross pins were the first design, the front sight was all there as well as the bayonet lug. I did feel a strange wobbble the couple times I picked it up (no, it wasn't my excitement over seeing a JSAR). Thought it might be the barrel, but nope. Never figured it out. Edit - Ended up at the show again to look at a few things again and wandered back to the table with the JSAR. It was the barrel wobbling. The barrel in mine is free to move a little, but not this much. Obviously, if it were too tight, then the action wouldn't cycle correctly or at all. Is there a "correct" amount of play between the bushings and the radiator?

I just may have to start going to Knob Creek now that the Patton Museum doesn't hold the living history days anymore.

Looks like paulo may get this JSAR and for quite a bit less than the last one went for. IMO, I think this one is even better than the $13,000.00 one....did like the wood though.

Very nice!! May have to get one as mine has a vertical crack, though it's not where it bends.

Cha-ching

Too bad shows don't allow pictures to be taken. Would've been nice to see.

Took the Johnson out for the first time yesterday and I was wondering if she'd be a little cranky for a 70 year old... For the most part, it went well. I was concerned about the firing pin as it was bent and would bind, but I managed to straighten it - thank goodness it came with a spare just in case. The recoil wasn't hard on me and the brass wasn't dinged up too badly (but I'm used to mangled brass from my FNC and Hk 91 anyway). Now if I could only get that darned buffer out and check the spring. Again, the gun came with a good spare if it needs it. Love the trigger...really smooth. It did have some feeding/ejection issues, but I can't recall exactly what was happening...it seemed to extract just fine...was it trying to chamber a live rnd when the previous one hasn't been ejected?...anyway, it seened to have trouble after I loaded more than 4 rounds. Maybe I was limp arming - can you do that with it? Next trip I'll pay more attention. Several people at the range knew what it was, but hadn't seen one in the flesh, so she was fondled lots before the firing started. One of the range guys can now say he's fired one. Even shot a short video of my dad firing it. Nice fire ball! All in all a good day and I can't wait to get her out again!

My brass had a very pronounced dent in the head where the ejector hit. Not sure how far it would fling it because of the stall at the indoor range. I must say I like how clean it was...just like a bolt gun, clean the bore, around the bolt face and lugs and your done. That would be a PITA if the barrel didn't come out. While my shoulder does hurt a little from the recoil, it certainly isn't any worse than the M1. It did feel different for me...I swear I could feel a slight double push, 1 from the firing and the other from the barrel stopping.

Wow, love all the pictures! Without the radiator and the rotary magazine, at first glance it looks like a normal semi-auto rifle.

I touched the crown with a little cold blue and it darkened..looks like no chrome.

I can't find anything with the search function, so I'll ask... Were the barrels chrome lined? When I first brought it home I didn't notice because it was SOOO filthy, but after a thorough cleaning, the crown sure does look like every other chrome lined barrel I have. Thoughts, comments or am I all wet?

Would someone please post a picture(s) of a Johnson extractor. The one in mine seems to work ok when cycling dummy rounds through by hand, but with a chunk of the claw gone, I'm worried extraction may not be so good when firing live rounds. I may need a new "to me" one.

Noooooo, there's a show in Tampa.

Received the extractor today and it went right in. After comparing it to the one that came in the gun, it has a slight bow that the other does not have. Next step...buying ammo to feed the baby. Thank goodness there's a gun show this weekend.

Mine looks just like that....where the radiator and the receiver meet. I read a topic from June where someone asked why it looked that way. I believe the jist of the response was that there were 2 arc welding machines at the plant and each had a different setting. I think most people would prefer the finished look of the later Johnsons, but now that I know it's part of the history, I'm ok with it. http://johnsonautomatics.com/messageboard/index.php?showtopic=1482&st=0&p=4747&hl=receiver%20&fromsearch=1&#entry4747

It appears the numbers on the rear sights can be filled in with white, yellow or nothing. Is any one more common than the others?? Was one done on the early rifles and the others done on later ones? How are the Miltech/Winfield ones done up? Mine are red and it doesn't look like it was done recently. Anyone else have red numbers?

No "P" on mine in either of those places. The center bushing looks different...is that how all the later ones are?

Thanks M48, I purchased one from Numrich late this afternoon. I'm anxious to get the old gal up and running!!

Hmmm, mine is missing that finger that comes down and has a chunk missing about 1/3 from the top on the lead edge.