Need help with recoil spring tube nut removal

[Bentley8 0]

Hello,

I was given a model 1941 Johnson from my father a few years ago, not sporterized, still in military configuration. I have kept it clean since I got it but haven't shot it. Shortly after I got it, I did remove and inspect the recoil spring and found it was about 11 inches or so, shorter than the 12" it needs to be (from what I've heard). I bought a couple of new springs from a fine gentleman in Texas (whose name escapes me for the moment). I decided this weekend to replace the spring and take it to the range.

But I couldn't get the recoil spring tube nut off.

When I try and twist it, it just moves the tube around in the stock, but just a little, say 1/8" or so. I've used considerable force on it and it won't budge. I can't think I cross-threaded it when I put it back on, but my memory is hazy. Even then, I can't see it being this difficult to move since I'm certain I didn't use that much force getting it on.

I tried using a punch and hammer, angled at the edge of the slot, to put some english on it, but it wouldn't turn. I even tried an impact wrench (not a pneumatic one, just the hammer-driven ones). No go.

I squirted some Kroil in the hole in the nut, hoping some would work it's way into the threads, but I can't remember if the nut threads on the outside of the tube, or threads on the inside (where the Kroil could easily get to it).

Has anyone else had this problem? Anybody offer a solution? It's not a left-hand thread is it? Have I been turning it the wrong way?

[Joseph Scott 0]

The recoil tube buffer assembly has very fine, right hand,internal, threads and tend to stick. Soak it with penetrating oil. Put some down from the other end and let it follow the spring downward. Make a wide blade screwdriver or use a paint scraper blade to turn it. I have a tie-rod tool (fits 1/2" breaker bar) which I ground to fit the slot. Be sure the small recoil key is in-place to prevent tube from turning. If it is out, the tube will rotate slightly in the bored hole. I am not sure what you are calling the "nut". The buffer is a 7/8" diameter flanged end assembly with 15mm-40tpi special "lamp threads".

[Bentley8 0]

Thanks for the reply, I'm relieved to hear that this part can stick and be hard to remove.

The tube does rotate slightly when I try and turn it; back and forth it moves about 1/8" or so. Sounds like my recoil key may be missing. Is it a bad idea to try and turn it without the key? And where do I find one?

I apologize for not knowing the correct terminology. I can't find an exploded diagram of the rifle that details the proper names of the smaller parts. What I'm calling the 'nut' is the part underneath the buttplate that has a large slot in it, with a hole in the center. I've been using FAL rifles for years and the recoil tube has a similar part on it that is commonly called a 'nut', thought it's more like a screw. I imagine the part on the Johnson is the same.

I'll add some more Kroil from the other end of the tube and let it sit overnight. I'll fashion a wide-bit screwdriver tonight.

[Joseph Scott 0]

The nut you describe is the buffer assembly. The small key which goes across the stock is 3/16" square. You can find them in hardware stores or get 3/16" key stock, grind a small bevel on each side of one end, look through the hole to get slot in position and work the key stock through. Original keys have small screws on each side to retain it in place. A temporary one will allow you to remove buffer screw. I have keys w/screws for $15.

The buffer assembly has an internal plunger and spring, check for free movement. Main spring should be 12" long. Last to come out is the follower which the operating link fits into socket end. The recoil tube comes out forward toward receiver. Re-lube with oil, not grease. I have a DVD which covers all disassembly/reassembley, etc. for $30ppd.

[Bentley8 0]

I'll take you up on that DVD offer after Christmas!

I managed to get the mainspring buffer out tonight. The Kroil did the trick. I also found out that the threads of the recoil tube were gooped up with what I presume is old oil. I used a dental pick the chase the threads and clean them out well. I reoiled, put in the new recoil spring, and applied a tiny dab of copper anti-sieze on the threads so that when my great-grandson needs to replace the spring he won't have the problems I did. :-)

The buffer went back in without a problem, nice and smooth.

Oh, and I did check and the mainspring buffer does have movement of the plunger.

Thank you very much for your assistance. Tomorrow it's off to the range!