Stock cracks

[Joseph Scott 0]

Minor stock cracks can be repaired using super glue which will penetrate to the bottom of crack like penetrating oil on rust. The repair will be stronger than original. Use regular super glue, open crack slightly, apply glue along opening, release wood and wipe off excess. Sets in about 5 minutes. Doesn't work to glue in missing pieces, use regular exterior wood glue for this.

[metrotps 0]

Minor stock cracks can be repaired using super glue which will penetrate to the bottom of crack like penetrating oil on rust. The repair will be stronger than original. Use regular super glue, open crack slightly, apply glue along opening, release wood and wipe off excess. Sets in about 5 minutes. Doesn't work to glue in missing pieces, use regular exterior wood glue for this.

Thanks for the tip Joseph.

[ArtR 0]

Joe

Thanks for the update....I had mentioned using something similar a few months back, but essentially using a "super glue" and had wondered if anyone else had tried or had any luck. I have not tried fixing a "chip" but think it might work. Will let you know if I have any luck. However, cracks seem to repair well and are nearly invisible. I have not tried to see what the result will be if using a varnish/lacquer finish as those sometimes have issues with glues, but oil finishes seem fine.

ArtR

[Matt K. 0]

There is also a "flexible" super glue I have used with good results. It dries as strong, but has a little give to it, so it isn't so brittle.

[Goodbye_Charlie 0]

I have a serious set of cracks in the rear stock of mine.

A long crack all the way from the magazine through the front screw hole all the way back to the spring tube.

Also both "ears" at the rear sides of the reciever are cracked and have been pinned (badly).

My neighbour is a retired pattern maker and says the cracking is from the grain and not stress - i.e. it's a bad cut of wood.

I asked about super glue and he doesn't beleive it has the shear strength for this application.

He suggested thinned cabinetmakers glue - I discussed a product called Gorilla Glue which is completely waterproof and I should be able to get it in the cracks with some cheap syringes I got from Lee Valley

I'll post on how it turns out

[Matt K. 0]

Gorilla glue expands a lot, so you have to stay on top of cleaning it off as it oozes out.

[Goodbye_Charlie 0]

Gorilla glue expands a lot, so you have to stay on top of cleaning it off as it oozes out.

Thanks for the tip - I'll post the results when I'm done.

[Goodbye_Charlie 0]

I just wanted to post thanks to everyone on this repair.

The gorilla glue holds really well, Matt was right - it expands a lot and looks ugly (looks like yellow foam) but seems to work really well structurally.

I wouldn’t use it for anything cosmetic but it might save an otherwise ruined stock.

On to teething problems...

[mc41 0]

As a furniture conservator I have experienced great results using Titebond brand wood glue products. The three I am going to list are all water based which naturally means easy clean up. In addition, depending on which product,the glues offer a 15 to 45 minute window in which the excess may be removed. A soft cotton cloth dipped in warm water followed by a dry cotton cloth works well at removing any drips or runs. Titebond original wood glue performs well for general repairs. Titebond liquid hide glue is an excellent choice where adhesive reverseability or authentic period hide glue restoration is required. Applications needing a waterproof adhesive would do well using Titebond #3. All three of these suggestions do require proper surface mating followed by correctly applied preasure, preferably clamping. In my repair studio I have occasionally found super glues and epoxies to be helpful. Yet,when those applications come in contact with bare wood or adjacent wood finishes the result is usually damage. When attempting a stained or dyed wood color bare wood quickly becomes sealed thus leaving a "ghost" remnant of that former drip or run. Furthermore,typically the harsh solvents required to soften and hopefuly remove superglues and epoxies may disfigure any surrounding original finishes turning a restoration effort into a total refinishing. This is why I have found that generally these previously mentioned water based glues are superior. Marc

[M48TANKER 0]

Marc, I have used Titebond glue for many years. I'm a retired Custom Homebuilding Contractor and in all my woodworking endeavors I've found it to be a superior glue. I used Elmer's Wood Glue before that, but once I tried Titebond it became my favorite. Custom built staircases involve a tremendous amount of gluing with all the handrail sections, volutes, turnouts, spindles, treads, molding joints, etc. "Titebond" has never failed me and I've never had a customer to tell me that any joint I've made with it has come loose.(49 years since I first started as a carpenter, and still counting at age 63 ) I buy it by the gallons. Of course each person has their own favorite based on personal experience. Elmer's never failed me either, but "Titebond" just seemed a bit better.???