Johnson # 4741 Info and Advice Request

[somd_mustangs 0]

I finally got around to working on my Sporterized Johnson S/N 4741 (probably a Winfield) and found these part numbers, wondering what if anything is still correct and any other info that might be available:

Stock N/A

BBL N/A (I have a spare, 6905K)

Hammer block #9487

Hammer #C4979 or C4379?

Bolt # E0730

Locking cam #C0276

Firing pin #E2679 or E2079?

Extractor #H2537

Magazine #A 656 (have spare too, #9687)

Fortunately I found this site a while back (when I bought my first mil-spec Johnson, # B1970) and it's helped significantly! At first glance this looks like one scary complicated rifle but it's impressive how much thought and engineering went into making it easy to strip down and maintain.

I have most everything to finish the conversion back to milspec, and as expected the stocks were the sticky point - I traded a 7mm Chilean barrel for a really nice set of Joseph Scott repro stocks to get the project ball rolling. Unfortunately the receiver was drilled for a scope mount, although all the holes will be hidden by the rear sight leaf. At this point I plan to just use set screws to plug the holes so a scope can be mounted for shooting and the original sight can be switched back in for "show."

Advice:

I'm having a heck of a time getting the mainspring tube cap unscrewed. I was trying to save the "original" Sporter stock, but perhaps that's foolish? Would it be smarter just to cut the back off so I can get some sort of purchase on the cap? I've had it soaking in PB Blaster for several days now with no joy. There is absolutely no evidence of wooden plugs or other access to the recoil stop and/or screws. I originally planned to just pull the cap & buffer assembly out and use a new stop & tube in the repro stock.

Getting ahead of myself, but what is good, safe ammo to use in this gun? I just want to basically plink with it at 100 yds or so.

Parts still needed:

o Original rear sight elevator

o Retaining clip for the front magazine pin

Barrel:

I currently have 3 barrels, 2 are "Sporter" of unknown origin, and one appears to be original military that has external cosmetic issues (pitting, finish loss). I would like to get in touch with Joseph Scott to see what it would take to check and fit the Sporter barrels with mil-spec sight & bayonet lug, check the military barrel and perhaps parkerize all 3. I'm pretty much a neophyte at this social network stuff however so hopefully he'll see this.

Thanks,

Jay

[Patsy57 0]

Where did you find the mil barrel?

[dash 0]

I ended up using a FAL tool to break the mainspring tube cap loose. I just couldn't get enough leverage with a large screwdriver.

http://www.milsurpst...asp?prod=TLF001

I've used mil surp ammo (70's HXP and 50's FN) as well as new commercial (Privi Partisan) and all have worked great. I think I ran some Remington-Winchester through when I first got it and it didn't like to feed the shorter bullet well. Can't give true accuracy results because all I have close is an indoor range.

[somd_mustangs 0]

Barrel:

When I bought the first rifle, the seller had a pile of 5 spare barrels he thought were Johnsons. I took a chance and bought them all for $500 unseen. Turns out 2 were 7mm Chilean, 1 original mil-spec, and 2 Sporter. One Sporter was bent & rusty and worth only the collars. The 2 7mm's are gone via Gunbroker & trade a few months ago. Hopefully the military is straight! It's got some external pitting but bore looks ok. Need to find some erosion gauges I guess. I plan on keeping the spare barrels I have left, at least for now.

End cap:

thanks for the lead. I thought about machining something out of a flat chisel or paddle drill bit but if there's an existing tool seems like a smarter move. Last thing I want to do is damage the cap!

As far as ammo, while I'm not the world's worst rifle shot, I'm probably close so it's more for fun and the range "wow" factor than anything else. Just don't want to over-stress the gun...

- Jay

[ryche_me 0]

Hey Mustangs: It has been agreed after alot of discussion that any 150 gr. load thats close to mil spec powder load usually works best.

Myself and many others have had alot of luck with the Greek HXP ammo. The CMP sold it for along time and you can still find it at some gunshows.

Civil. ammo as long as the bullet weight is close to 150 work well.Too light and the bullet is too short and you may have feed problems.

Don't go up into the 170gr. or higher as the recoil may cause damage to the ejector and they are hard to find. Plus the recoil just hurts at that weight range.

Anyway thats my 2cents for what its worth

Ryche

[somd_mustangs 0]

Thanks, that's the kind of gouge I needed!

Jay

[somd_mustangs 0]

DASH:

The FN tool did the trick! I ordered it Monday morning and had it in hand Wednesday. Had to file the blades a little to get them to fit in the cap slot but once I got a snug fit I was able to apply at least 50 ftlb to break it free. It was really cranked on there! No way a screwdriver would have done it. No damage, all is well. Thanks very much for the tip !

[dash 0]

Glad to help! After I finally broke mine loose, I found it was just old grease/oil that had locked it up so tight. No rust thank goodness.