Question on a tight fitting original buttstock.

[lemmy 0]

Hi,

Looking for some input on the tight fitting of an original buttstock.

Not a big deal, but when I go to remove the hammer block pin (the one just behind the magazine), it is extremely tight and would require light prying to remove. If I loosen the front hammer block screw (the screw at the bottom front of the buttstock) a half a turn, then the pin is loose and can easily be removed.

It looks as though the hammer block screw boss has made an impression into the wood over the years and tightening it when the rifle is assembled pushes the front top right edge of the buttstock into the receiver area where the hammer block pin goes. This then pulls the hammer block down and out of alignment for the pin.

Again, it's not really a big deal and placing a thin fibre or nylon washer between the hammer block and buttstock at the front screw solves the problem. I've read many posts here that stress the point of making sure all the screws are tight and was wondering if I may be creating another problem when it comes under load.

I guess my real question is, should I leave well enough alone and just loosen the front screw a half turn when ever I need to dissasemble?

Thanks

[M48TANKER 0]

My $0.02 worth is to let well enough alone. If the function of the rifle is not impaired just loosen the screw before driving the pin. I'm a carpenter by trade and I can tell you that wood is a living thing.....even after it's dead wood. It can swell, it can shrink, it will come and go with the humidity and storage conditions.

It's not usually a huge problem but I've had to fine tune the fitting on many military stocks. I don't fool with civilian hunting guns much.

That being said, I can see nothing wrong with using shims to tighten things up a bit, or removing a tiny shaving of wood down in the bottom of the stock if you have a persistant fitting problem. Usually the least you can do, the better off you'll be. It sounds to me like you have a small problem with the fit near the center of the trigger housing because the rocking motion, when you tighten the screw up, is forcing down on the pin area. Perhaps you could use some thin strips of typing paper in between the fire congrol group and the stock. When you tighten up the parts the paper will be compressed and will reveal where the most pressure is. Then you can see where the trigger housing hits the wood first......and then you'll know how much to remove and where. Easy does it. A tiny bit can make a big difference.

I know other members have more experience with their Johnsons than I do. Someone may have a better idea.

[lemmy 0]

Thanks,

Yeah, I guess loosening and tightening the one screw isn't a big deal. I just didn't want to make a habit of it... sometimes I just like taking things apart to look at them.

[M48TANKER 0]

Thanks,

Yeah, I guess loosening and tightening the one screw isn't a big deal. I just didn't want to make a habit of it... sometimes I just like taking things apart to look at them.

Hey.....me too. I've been told that when I was about four years old, I took my Aunt's radio apart while it was playing. The adults noticed the music quit and came and found my smiling face.

If slipping a thin shim unter the boss of the front screw makes it a solid fit and the surfaces are still flush, I'd go ahead and do that. Check for proper hammer to firing pin contact.....it should still be OK.

[lemmy 0]

Nice, nothing like live wires! I can't help it, I like knowing how things work. It's interesting seeing the different approaches taken to achieve the same action.

Yes, I don't see an issue with the function of the gun itself as it would be within whatever up/down play there is in the hammer block groove that slides onto the receiver. There's no visible wear there, so I assume that's within spec. I just didn't want to stress the wood anymore than necessary.

Thanks for the input.