Stocks

[Joseph Scott 0]

I just got a message from someone who paid $900 for a new stock and says it is not correct.  I replied that I have 6 blanks to finish but have not worked on them due to heart/health problems.  Hope to have them in next few months.  Will post when ready.  At Tulsa, I had 4-5 persons asked how to get tube out of sporter wood.  Can someone make a short video or post pictures on removing hidden key, and removing recoil tube.

[ArtR 0]

Hi Joe

Glad to hear that health issues have improved for you and that you are able to be up and about doing what you love. 

Is there anyone who lives near you who might be able to help/assist when you do start to work on the stocks? Maybe it would be a good time for some OJT for someone. Just a thought.

Wish you all the best over the holiday season.

ArtR

[maconners 0]

Anvil you tube video shows how to remove magazine tube. go to minute 4:44.

 

Be sure to remove recoil spring  tube cap and recoil spring tube retainer block

before driving out the recoil tube as seen in video.

[ArtR 0]

He does not show how to remove the recoil tube 'hidden key', which if I understand Joe correctly, can also be tricky.

Joe might also comment on the method show to remove the recoil tube?

Edit: I had watched this video many months ago, and remembered there were some 'issues' with this 'gunsmith'. One: he says the forestock/hand guard moves to the rear when the gun is fired. Anyone want to comment? Also, if you watch the video, he does some crazy things, like using steel hammers versus brass, and he uses screw drivers which are the wrong size/thickness many, many times when he is removing/installing screws. There were some other issues, but those were the most glaring to me.

[Joseph Scott 0]

The front end is fabricated sheet metal and is welded to the forging part with a special designed welder to insure perfect alignment.   I note that he has a non factory operating handle.  This could possibly stop bolt rotation not exactly opposite the collar lugs causing lug hammering.            Also the buffer screw should be tightened snug to preload the small recoil key to prevent tube movement.  He didn't mention front retainer pin.  The small finger retainer is missing.

Every time I see a Johnson video, it is done by someone learning and guessing about design features.

I hoped someone would show removing the plugged hole with epoxyed key underneath on sporter stocks.  On my new stock blanks, I am teaching my wife to make them.

[camstuff 0]

I did have to remove the tube from a sporter stock because I desperately needed the tube for an original stock I acquired.  I put blue painters tape on the stock and carefully did my layout on the opposite side of the wood plug, also making sure several times my markings were correct before drilling.  I ended up missing the center of the key and could tell I hit the edge. But which edge!  as it turned out the wood plug was not exactly over the center of the key, I ended up drilling a few more holes to be able to remove the key and salvage the tube in good shape.  
 

I definitely would have a different approach if I have to do it again. 

[WHIG 0]

Not withstanding the comments above, I was impressed with the detail of this video and explanation of what he was doing and each part he worked with. I disassembled, cleaned, lubed and reassembled my JSAR when I got it. I didn't remove the mainspring tube. Fortunately, I didn't have to repair anything in mine but this video was quite enjoyable. It should convince people who are not too handy with gun smithing issues not to try to work with a JSAR. I wonder how much he charged the customer for all of what he did.

[Blueheeler 0]

9 hours ago, camstuff said:

I did have to remove the tube from a sporter stock because I desperately needed the tube for an original stock I acquired.  I put blue painters tape on the stock and carefully did my layout on the opposite side of the wood plug, also making sure several times my markings were correct before drilling.  I ended up missing the center of the key and could tell I hit the edge. But which edge!  as it turned out the wood plug was not exactly over the center of the key, I ended up drilling a few more holes to be able to remove the key and salvage the tube in good shape.  
 

I definitely would have a different approach if I have to do it again. 

I did basically the same thing. Located the plugs and used a drill press to try and  bore them out-ended up a bit off target but close enough to drive the key out. 

[Tankhatch 0]

It was quicker and it was less of a hassle, to just destroy the sport stock, to get my tube out.

End plug was good, but tube was rough / pitted on the inside.

[Rarecat 0]

My Winfield stock had so many cracks it wasn't worth trying to save.  I pretty much destroyed it to get the tube out.  The tube was probably worth more than the sporter stock anyway.

[Ed Johnson 0]

Not to digress from any progress you folks can make with this process.....but once again, we have been looking for someone who can learn repair/manufacturing on Johnson products from Joe Scott. I thought we had one possibility but that didn't work out. I am happy to follow up on any leads that I can refer to Joe when he is feeling better.  ej

[camstuff 0]

Wish I could help and learn from Joe, it would be an amazing opportunity, however unfortunately, we are about 1500 miles from each other.  I really do hope that someone can take the reins. 

[maconners 0]

Joe is a true artist in wood and metal.

Maybe he could expand his disassembly video into a series of 1941 Johnson stock making and parts manufacturing how to videos.