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Tatereater

Rear stock question

18 posts in this topic

Good afternoon, finally disassembled my Johnson and noticed something odd about the rear stock. It appears that the curved end was added on because the grain doesn’t match. So I was wondering what the proper length of the rear stock is.

Trying to upload photos but keep getting an error message.

 

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Looks like some wood was cut off original stock before lengthening.This is a subtraction and addition problem.

I'd like to know if one can make an invisible joint on a lengthened stock.

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I took the liberty of copying one of Tater's pictures from his other thread. Looks like the rear of the stock was chopped to fit a sporter butt plate. 

 

ebCIbeV.jpeg

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Regarding JSAR stock 'cheek' pieces, see page 252 of Canfield's "Johnson Rifles and Machine Guns", left column, 3rd paragraph, for a full description on stock construction/usage.

Also, the piece added to the buttstock might make accessing the main spring housing interesting.

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Thanks Blueheeler. I didn’t think of pulling a pic from the other tread.

When I took that buttplate off, it does appear they drilled out a hole, but it isn’t quite big enough.

What I wondering if that was just tacked on to the end of the stock. It appeared to be held on with 2 long wood screws and glue.

Edited by Tatereater

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Hey Tater!

In my humble opinion, the rear portion of your butt stock has been added. Perhaps to accommodate the eye relief needed for the scope. If you look at the distance from the sling swivel to the butt plate, you will notice that it's extraordinarily long...and more in keeping with the placement of an original.

Of course the difference in the wood grain and the curved shape of the metal butt plate indicates this as well. If you decide to keep the scope you may want to keep that extra length. If you try to return the rifle to a more original configuration, you'll want to very carefully remove that couple of inches on the end of butt stock.

 

1DDF8E6F-DAC7-48EB-B380-138730017B8A.jpeg

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Hi Tanker, 

I was thinking the same. It feels awkward shouldering it as it is, so I was assuming the curved bit was added to the stock. That could work out great since the stock is other wise in decent shape. No visible cracks and only normal wear and tear dings here and there.

 I just need to gingerly weaken the glue, and slap the proper butt plate on when it arrives.

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Please let us know what you find will weaken the glue. Perhaps a heat gun? Is the top of the butt stock inletted (and now probably filled in too) for the upper "L" shaped tang of the original butt plate?

 

Parked buttplate top.JPG

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You should try to determine the type of glue used on the stock extension. Heat works well to soften epoxy but you might want to cut off all but a thin layer of wood from the extension so you don't have to heat a thick section and possibly burn the stock. If hide glue was used, heat and moisture will soften it. Shield adjoining wood with paper tape or foil or a wet rag to prevent heat damage. Be sure to find position of recoil tube plug before cutting. Or if you have a steady hand just cut it close and sand off the rest with a sanding block. No heat needed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, maconners said:

You should try to determine the type of glue used on the stock extension. Heat works well to soften epoxy but you might want to cut off all but a thin layer of wood from the extension so you don't have to heat a thick section and possibly burn the stock. If hide glue was used,heat and moisture will soften it. Be sure to find position of recoil tube plug before cutting.

 

 

I wish I'd said that:D

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Good afternoon. Finally worked the add on off the stock and this is what I found. Is that metal bit supposed to be down that low?

 

Edit: looked a round a bit, appears that tube is supposed to be there, just not out so far. I am guessing they cut the stock down and then added the curved bit. At this point I am guessing I need to replace the rear stock w/ a repo. Any idea how I get the mainspring tube out? Couldn’t really tell what was holding it in place.

62A43628-24D3-47FF-B673-481149E050B8.jpeg

BBB41EFB-DCC7-495F-9F4D-F5ED38C8E302.jpeg

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Tube is held in place by this:

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/440150

This square retainer key (recoil stop) is held in place by the 2 screws behind the grip. In a sporter stock the screws are eliminated and the holes are plugged.

Your stock was cut short. If you get matching grain walnut you can add back and carve to shape. Use the many pictures of Johnson stocks as a model.

How did you finally remove the extension? You did a nice job of preventing damage to the original wood.

To remove the recoil tube you have to remove the key first. Following video gives an idea of procedure:

start at 3:28

 

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First I soaked it in krud cutter, then sanded it down, rinsed it with warm water and dried the seam w/ a hairdryer. Gave the rest of the stock about a week to dry. The glue started to flake on the edges so I was able to pick at it with a thin razor. 

Whoever did the joint was really skilled. Other than the mismatched grain, you’d never know it was an addition. Odd though that they didn’t have a cutout to give you access to the main spring.

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The holes in the butt of the stock indicate that it is original military and thus is worth salvaging. The front should have a letter and/or number stamped on it and look like this one (except for the crack,the missing wood,and those missing curved additions called cheek pieces) with the M and what looks like a 4 in the curved recessed area:

1941 johnson cracked.jpg

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I poked around online looking at stocks on ebay. All were in rough shape, so I reattached the extension bit and am in the process of trimming it and reshaping it to fit the proper buttplate.

The original stocks had 3 larger holes drilled into them? One hole makes sense for the mainspring tube, what are the other 2 for?

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