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[Ausnake 0]

Been lurking for awhile finally joined. I have owned #5255 for a long time now and looking to learn more about it and what serial numbers it should have. 

 

Also looking to get it functional again. Last time out was getting light primer hits and it would not fire. Tried the same ammo in M1 Garand with no issues. What typically would cause this issue? Assuming maybe firing pin spring maybe? 

 

I will try and get up some pics this evening. 

 

 

Thank you

 

 

[Ausnake 0]

The bolt and barrel both have the serial on it, wondering if that was done by someone later down the line instead of the factory or is that normal?

[ArtR 0]

Hi Ausnake and welcome to the forum.

The following information is provided from the production logs:

Receiver SN 5255, Received From: Cranston Arms, Date Received 1/28/1942, Stock No. 2, Barrel No. 8580E, Hammer Block No. 5247, Hammer No. 2485, Bolt No.  6812, Locking Cam No. 6329, Firing Pin No. 2962,  Extractor No. 4758,  Magazine No. 4153, Disposition Date 1/29/1942, Transferred to J.A. Inc - N.P.C

Without proper and reliable provenance, be very careful about claims of both ownership and usage.

These are the only parts and SN's that would be in your rifle, if it was totally original. As we have stated before, the odds of having any actual  PN's that match the receiver number are astronomical. Odds are, someone tried to make the gun look better than it actually is. In fact, such mis-marking could possibly detract from the value.

ArtR

[Ausnake 0]

Thank you for the great info, looks like this one has a lot of non original parts.  I have no intentions of selling it so not worried about the value.

If it went to the NPC does that mean it was an export to the Netherlands?

 

Any thoughts on light primer strikes cause? 

 

Thank you. 

[ArtR 0]

As for light primer strikes, try to eliminate the obvious. Remove the bolt assembly and disassemble, clean, and lube everything. This eliminates binding issues. After that, springs come to mind, either firing pin spring or hammer spring, both inexpensive, and worthwhile as spares if not needed. Check that the chamber is clean and that there are no binding scratches or other indications from a shell that is hand operated through the chambering and extraction sequence. Others may chime in with other ideas as well.

[Ausnake 0]

Thanks 

[Ausnake 0]

Springs ordered will respond back once I get a chance to try it out. Thanks for the advice. 

[WHIG 0]

Ausnake,

 

Welcome to the Johnson 1941 forum. You have had a nice one for quite a while.

I had to replace the mainspring in mine because it was quite short and weak. Make sure you are shooting military .30-06 with harder primers or you'll get some slam fires. When you get it functioning well and shoot it, you'll have to let us know. Good luck!

[Ausnake 0]

Thanks for the info WHIG. I got my new firing pin spring and hammer spring in this week. When I finally get time to install them I will take a look at the mainspring as well. Think I saw on another post it should be 12 inches long?

[WHIG 0]

Yes. The new ones and good functioning ones are 12 inches. That should make a difference and hopefully it will have good primer strikes now. Keep us informed!

[M48TANKER 0]

Ausnake,

That's a very nice looking rifle indeed! There isn't much I can add to Art's suggestions as to light primer strikes. Of course, you might want to check things like the headspace to be sure it's right, and the length of the firing pin protrusion. The firing pin spring most likely only affects the chance of slamfires, but I suppose if a different firing pin spring that is too stout has been installed, it could affect the ability of the hammer spring to provide the proper power.

As Art said, clean the bolt assembly well and check for burrs both on the bolt and inside the receiver. Joseph Scott might tell you about many Johnson needing to have the chamber polished, but that is usually due to extraction issues.

When you clean the bolt head's interior, make sure there is no carbon or other build-up that might prevent the firing pin from going all the way forward. Then once you install the firing pin into the bolt look to be sure the firing pin protrusion from the bolt face is enough to give a sufficient primer strike.

It is probably just my imagination but in the photo of your firing pin I thought I could see slight "mushrooming" of the tip of the firing pin? You might want to check it for both length and diameter.

I just looked at your photo of the firing pin again...it appears that something, at some time, has caused some scratches on the front of the pin near the tapers.

 

 

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Ausnake 0]

On 6/16/2023 at 11:12 AM, WHIG said:

Yes. The new ones and good functioning ones are 12 inches. That should make a difference and hopefully it will have good primer strikes now. Keep us informed!

It measured in at 11.5. Think I should replace it?

 

The new firing pin spring was a bit longer than what was in it and the Hammer spring is slightly shorter than what was in it. 

On 6/16/2023 at 5:40 PM, M48TANKER said:

Ausnake,

That's a very nice looking rifle indeed! There isn't much I can add to Art's suggestions as to light primer strikes. Of course, you might want to check things like the headspace to be sure it's right, and the length of the firing pin protrusion. The firing pin spring most likely only affects the chance of slamfires, but I suppose if a different firing pin spring that is too stout has been installed, it could affect the ability of the hammer spring to provide the proper power.

As Art said, clean the bolt assembly well and check for burrs both on the bolt and inside the receiver. Joseph Scott might tell you about many Johnson needing to have the chamber polished, but that is usually due to extraction issues.

When you clean the bolt head's interior, make sure there is no carbon or other build-up that might prevent the firing pin from going all the way forward. Then once you install the firing pin into the bolt look to be sure the firing pin protrusion from the bolt face is enough to give a sufficient primer strike.

It is probably just my imagination but in the photo of your firing pin I thought I could see slight "mushrooming" of the tip of the firing pin? You might want to check it for both length and diameter.

I just looked at your photo of the firing pin again...it appears that something, at some time, has caused some scratches on the front of the pin near the tapers.

 

 

Good luck and keep us posted.

I have not noticed that mark on the pin, I will pull it back apart later today and take a peak at it. The pin seems to be going all the way forward and to me seems to be enough length for a solid primer strike but I will take it back out and check. How long should the distance be for the length? I cleaned the bolt up and checked for burs, did not notice any.

 

It's prob going to be July before I can make it to the range unfortunately. 

[WHIG 0]

I don't know the consensus here from people more experienced than me but I would think your spring at 11.5 inches should be good. If you are shooting and having issues, you can replace it. Mine was around 10 inches and probably original and needed replaced.

[Ausnake 0]

Finally got to the range yesterday, no good news to report same outcome as before and also had a couple of rounds stick in the chamber and had issues pulling the bolt back to get them out.  

 

Maybe a new new firing pin and maybe a mainspring.  

[ArtR 0]

Are you still having light primer strike issues?

Also, you might want to follow a similar post by JSDKMS, who is also having chamber/extraction issues.

[Ausnake 0]

6 minutes ago, ArtR said:

Are you still having light primer strike issues?

Also, you might want to follow a similar post by JSDKMS, who is also having chamber/extraction issues.

Correct, 

 

Will look for that post this evening

[M48TANKER 0]

Ausnake,

Joe Scott had a lot of info to pass on in some old posts on the topic of difficult extraction. The chamber hones which Joe recommends work great.

This is a common problem with many mil-surplus rifles, including the 1941 Johnson. I bought a set of the 30.06 chamber finishing hones and used one on a Johnson barrel on which I was working.

I had just re-cut the depth of the chamber to fix a tight headspace situation and then used one of the hones for the final step. Well worth the money.

These hones are not expensive and if used conservatively, as recommended, you can get several uses out of them. You might be able to just clean and polish the chamber with a brass brush and shine it up. Casting the chamber won't hurt either, but that is something I've not had to do yet. Looking closely at your ejected brass can give you an indication of any abnormal conditions on the walls of your chamber. Make sure your loaded brass is clean and polished before firing for effect.You may or may not be able to diagnose the problem by looking at the brass. Anyway if won't cost you anything to thoroughly clean and polish your chamber with a good brush and solvent until it shines like a buffed penny. Maybe use some automotive "valve lapping" compound on a cotton chamber cleaner?

You might want to check your headspace with "go/no go" gauges before you do anything else.

I sometimes imagine wild theories which others might not think of. For example: "Is it possible to have enough excessive head space that the cartridge goes into the chamber too far? That might jam the bottle neck and shoulders of the cartridge too tight into the chamber and make it stick.... AND... keep the firing pin from striking the primer hard enough?"

 

[Ausnake 0]

20 hours ago, M48TANKER said:

Ausnake,

Joe Scott had a lot of info to pass on in some old posts on the topic of difficult extraction. The chamber hones which Joe recommends work great.

This is a common problem with many mil-surplus rifles, including the 1941 Johnson. I bought a set of the 30.06 chamber finishing hones and used one on a Johnson barrel on which I was working.

I had just re-cut the depth of the chamber to fix a tight headspace situation and then used one of the hones for the final step. Well worth the money.

These hones are not expensive and if used conservatively, as recommended, you can get several uses out of them. You might be able to just clean and polish the chamber with a brass brush and shine it up. Casting the chamber won't hurt either, but that is something I've not had to do yet. Looking closely at your ejected brass can give you an indication of any abnormal conditions on the walls of your chamber. Make sure your loaded brass is clean and polished before firing for effect.You may or may not be able to diagnose the problem by looking at the brass. Anyway if won't cost you anything to thoroughly clean and polish your chamber with a good brush and solvent until it shines like a buffed penny. Maybe use some automotive "valve lapping" compound on a cotton chamber cleaner?

You might want to check your headspace with "go/no go" gauges before you do anything else.

I sometimes imagine wild theories which others might not think of. For example: "Is it possible to have enough excessive head space that the cartridge goes into the chamber too far? That might jam the bottle neck and shoulders of the cartridge too tight into the chamber and make it stick.... AND... keep the firing pin from striking the primer hard enough?"

 

 

 

Thanks for the info Will try the the cleaning/polishing first and go from there. Going to check around and see if anyone know has go/no go gauge, if not will buy them. If ok will looking at honing.