Ridge Runner

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Posts posted by Ridge Runner

  2. Posted · Report post

    Well, after a year of buying it, I finally had it out to the range.

    It took awhile to save up the money for the restoration, then finding the time to work on the stock, then I lost one of the screws and had to order another one from Joseph Scott. Then I had to find the time to sneak away to the range.

    What a great rifle to shoot. Recoil was not bad at all and it holds really well. The sights present an excellent picture. It did however, keep grouping to the right, no matter how much I played with the rear sights.

    I determined that I need to drift the rear sights slightly to the left. Other than that, it was grouping very well.

    I did notice on my brass that it leaves a very distinctive mark. I small rectangle dent on the edge of the rim face. Is that the same for everyone?

    It worked perfectly, handled well, looked great and drew a small crowd at the range.

    I can not wait till next week end.

  3. Posted · Report post

    Ridge, 10:30 am

    I can only think of one tightly wound spring on the JR. But none with a 1/4 inch length as you described. I've never taken the bolt stop plate plunger apart nor the detent ball springs of the rear sight adjustment knob or the mainspring buffer tube assembly so I know whether or not these springs are finely wound (I would not think so.) Never found a reason to disassemble them. The only tightly wound I can think of is the main spring for the rotary magazine. Sometimes the loading door paddle spring steel has been substituted for a wound spring. Most of the removable springs on the JR are course wound with the exception of the magazine main spring. Field stripping for usually does not require the total disassembly of every component of the rifle. Next time should you feel the need to do this I suggest laying out the assemblies in the order you disassemble, clean, then reassemble. Doing this keeps left over parts (if any) to an absolute minimum.

    I think the spring you described may have come from something else and not from the JR.

    walt

    Thanks Walt. I appreciate the detailed answer.

    A thank you to all of you.

  4. Posted · Report post

    Ridge Runner,

    Just go to Joe Scott's web site, jmscottparts.com, and look at the parts blow up for the Johnson rifle. The bolt stop plate is part number 3x and the plunger is on the right side of it. On your rifle it is located at the top-rear of the receiver. You have to push the plunger and lift the stop plate to remove the bolt assy. from the rifle. I think it is pretty unlikely that you extra spring came from this part. I hope that I've explained this clearly enough. If you already knew this and I misunderstood your question then I apologize

    Good luck,

    Mike

    Thank you for the visual....however that is not it. Damn this is frustrating. It may be a part to something else.

    I took my JAR apart again and I can not see where this spring would fit. It is just OVER 1/4 of an inch long.

    The rifle seems to function well without it and I am hesitant to shoot it to find out. The bolt seems to be complete and intact.

  9. Posted · Report post

    Ridge,

    Trying to give an accurate value on items never seen or handled is quite hard to do. The folks at Kittery may or may not tell you what you want to hear. If your rifle looks 60+ years old and nothing has been modified then I would say you should get a decent value. If it looks too new especially with the Garand barrel, then the value may not be what you think it should be. There are still quite allot of folks who have never heard of a JR little lone ever seen one. They may ask you whether you bought it in it's present condition or have you modified it. If the appraiser is sharp he should know whether it is or isn't

    I wouldn't expect a stratuspheric value. Maybe what you paid for it or slightly higher.

    walt B)

    Walt -

    Thanks for the comments. I do not expect a high figure. I have no delusions about what I have.

    It is a rare rifle that has been modified. I have tried to do the best I could on it.

    I do not feel like its owner, just its "caretaker".

    I am doing it more for fun than anything.

  10. Posted · Report post

    Going to Kittery Trading Post in Kittery Maine this Saturday.

    They are having a free Antique Gun and fishing appraisal show from 10am-6pm.

    I thought I would bring my JAR/bayonet & scabbard down to see what they say.

    Your comments would be appreciated -

    It was a sporterized JAR that has been worked on by Joseph Scott.

    New replacement stock from Joseph Scott

    M1 Garand barrel that has been parkerized with new front sight and bayonet lug (Again from Joseph Scott)

    Receiver and trigger guard is blued

    Dutch stamp on receiver

    Replacement but plate (Joseph Scott)

    Bayonet and Scabbard are original and are in excellent condition.

    Any guesses as to its value?

    Any guesses as to what they will tell me is the value?

    We could make this a contest

  11. Posted · Report post

    I sent a JAR bayonet and scabbard that I bought from a dealer over a year ago for $350.

    The bayonet is in excellent condition. No pitting, rust or major nicks. Color is uniform throughtout.

    The scabbard is in excellent shape also. If I remember correctly Joseph Scott told me over the phone that it is one of the nicer ones he has seen.

    What should I do to preseve the scabbard correctly?

    I assume I do not treat it at all......put do I seal it in a vaccume bag?

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.

  14. Posted · Report post

    Does anyone have any leftover stain from their rifle that they would be willing to donate?

    Does anyone know where I can find this stuff? I have been to Lowes, Home Depot and every local paint store and they look at me like I am an idiot?

    If I do locate it, how many coats should I apply to a new stock? How dark were the rifles stained?

    How do you guys apply BLO to your stocks and how many coats?

    I have a match on 5/12 and I would love to see everyones faces when I show up with this rifle to compete against their M1's......... :D

    Any detailed advice would be appreciated.

  16. Posted · Report post

    Hello everyone -

    I just wanted to let everyone here know what a pleasure it was to deal with Joseph Scott.

    I found a nice JAR by luck and knew next to nothing about them. I found this site and his website around the same time and decided that I would have Joseph do the restoration work.

    After several phone calls to Joe I realized that I was dealing with a really nice, honest guy who knew his stuff and who was willing to spend the extra time on the phone explaining things to a newbie.

    I sent my bayonet and scabbard along with my JAR for him to inspect and get some feedback on, since I know very little about them. He told me that for $350 I got a really good original bayonet and an "outstanding" original leather scabbard, possibly one of the better ones he has seen.

    Due to my ignorance, I asked Joseph to do work a certain way on the rifle and it ended up costing me a lot more money than I anticipated. When I questioned the bill, Joseph explained to me why the price was more due my requests and how I could significantly reduce my costs. He did it in a very friendly and professional manner. I should have known what I was requesting before I requested it.

    Well, the finished product is here and I am getting ready to stain it and take it to the range. It looks beautiful and the work is first rate.

    The video I requested from him was destroyed by FEDEX during shipping. Joseph has told me that another one will be out in the mail ASAP.

    It is not often that you can talk to someone about guns and learn more than you ever dreamed, but Joseph Scott proved to be a wealth of knowledge and a hell of a nice guy to deal with.

    I would recommend his work to anyone. His service is top notch.

    Thank you Joseph for some excellent work.

    Tom from Maine

  17. Posted · Report post

    Hi, Joseph Scott kindly gave me this. I am sure he would agree for me to pass it on. He is one very nice guy.

    Natham

    I like to use MInWax "WoodSheen" Rubbing Stain and

    Finish,

    Rosewood #751. Comes in a squeese bottle like thick toothpaste. Use

    paper

    towels and rub in one coat, dry, add more for darker color. Dry and

    top with

    boiled linseed oil or tung oil. Gives a nice deep reddish brown like

    original 1903's. About $5 at Lowes or Home depot. Try on a hidden

    spot

    first.

    I emailed Joe, but have not heard from him yet. I guess he has a life, unlike me :P:P

  20. Posted · Report post

    Hi -

    I finally removed my barrel to take a look at it. It is 21.5 inches long (cut down?) and had the protective front sight ears cut off. There is no bayonet lug, or evidence of one.

    The rifling is very clear and distinct. The barrel appears to be in good condition. There are two deep "gouges" on the top and bottom of the barrel near the chamber about a quarter of an inch long. They appear to be almost symetrical and directly opposite of each other. They are not scratches.

    The barrel only sticks out about one eight of an inch beyone the front sight. It does not appear long enought to fully support a bayonet.

    About three quarters down the barrel is a collar with the following marks:

    "30-06" on the top

    "41" on the bottom

    There is also a large "A" on the side of the collar

    At the end of the barrel at the chamber is the following markings:

    "5006K" is stamped on the lug

    "UC" and "XN" are stamped at the very end on the chamber

    Can anyone help me identify these marks?

    How does the barrel condition compare with others?

    Boy, I am really starting to like this rifle. It is a sporter, but it will be a fun project!

  22. Posted · Report post

    Well, the bayonet and scabbard look real.

    It has the domed rivet head, and everthing else seems to match up. The scabbard also seems to pass the test.

    However, I have to ask, was the machining on the originals poor in some cases?

    The blade on my bayonet lis clearly "off center" to one side when you look at it from the top.

    Also, the ring that goes around the barrel is very irregular shaped on the outside of the ring.

    Could this be attributed to them trying to get a lot out a one time?

  23. Posted · Report post

    Hi -

    Could someone measure the length of their butt stock wood from the end of the top of the receiver to the end of the butt stock?

    Mine looks cut down, and I am trying to calculate by how much.

    If you could also measure from the end of the butt stock to the rear of the butt sling swivel I would appreicate it. Mine has been removed, and I am considering putting a new one in. However, I can not tell where it should go. There is no evidence of there ever being a rear butt sling swivel on my butt stock at all.

    What was the purpose of the screw in right side of the butt stock? What did it hold? Mine has been plugged and I am trying to decide if I should remove it and how.

    Also, what color would original M1941 wood be? Would it be the reddish brown on 1903a3's and M1 Garands?

  25. Posted · Report post

    It would appear that my Johnson only accepts 5 rounds. I plan on ordering the video for proper disassembly, but I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this?

    I can only imagine that it has been altered to only accept 5 rounds in order to be legal to hunt with.

    Any ideas or experiences on how this might have been done? Should I be really worried?

    It accepts a full stripper clip with no problems, after that, forget it.