WallyatPearl41

Members
  • Content count

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About WallyatPearl41

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    PA
  • Interests
    Johnson rifles of course & basically any rifle from the civil war to ww2 !! But, who doesn't right !!

Recent Profile Visitors

1,296 profile views
  1. I know guys, please don't stone me, but does anyone have "for sale" a Madsen m47 (30-06 ,columbian contract, bolt action rifle) bayonet and scabbard ? Please see pics below for an example of mine, I need another one !! Thank you !!
  2. I have not noticed any lost posts, I just checked. However, I do feel bad about the hole in my computer now !! I didn't realize it was the site that went down !! Sorry,Dell !!
  3. Hey guys just thought I'd throw something out there. Does anybody have an "A" prefix serial number JSAR they'd be interested in trading ? Here's what I'm offering up, WW2 Beretta 38A "MAB" (Moschetto-automatica,Beretta Modello) Sub-machine gun that has been legally/permanently converted by an 07 FFL licensed manufacturer to semi-auto firing. It is 100% transferable w/ no class 3 or SBR stamp needed just a simple 01 transfer where mags are legal. The 38A is still chambered in it's original 9mm parabellum round. It now fires from a closed bolt, has a moving firing pin (not fixed) has an SKS type firing group (trigger set-up) that still retains the original select fire, dual trigger appearance, but rear functions as the safety. The original barrel is now a legal length & has a great bore !! Again,this rifle is permanently modified to semi-auto only it can NOT fire full auto !! The Beretta retains it's original receiver (not a repop ) that has had the "MAB' markings polished off to avoid any confusion of still being a full auto (MAB) firearm. All original serial numbers are intact on receiver/barrel. The original stock does have an arsenal repair at wrist area, very tight/secure & does not affect structural integrity. Rifle is in nice condition as pics show & is fully functional. Also included are the original canvas carrying case, original sling & 7 original 40 rd mags. Plus, you are getting 800 rds of 9mm blanks (200 rds are bagged "SMG use only", 100 rds are fiocchi & 500 rds are ppu all are blank 9x19 luger new condition but boxes show shelf/storage wear) along w/ an extra tun-able blank only barrel w/ tool & muzzle ports. The muzzle end of this barrel is threaded to accept different ports to allowing tuning for various blank ammo. The extra barrel is an original but can NOT be live fired !! It is not needed to fire blanks on the semi-auto but will work great on a full auto 38a for re -enacting purposes, either way it's included w/ deal. Again, just thought I'd post it to see what happens ? Thank you !!
  4. O.K. fellas, I couldn't wait did a tear down to check numbers & figured I'd give everything a good cleaning while apart. I am a little disappointed, but enjoyed the research & by no means love the ole '41 any less !! So, here we go JSAR # 0242 Bbl #512E = H6267 Hmr blk #0344 = 0344 Hmr #0562 = 0002 (not a match but i'm cool w/ 0002) Bolt #295 = 2614 Lck cam #125 = 5830 Firing pin #882 = E2527 Extractor #516 = C6518 Magazine #1005 = E0140 In conclusion only the Hammer block matches, but I'm still happy to be caretaker of the rifle !! The rifle is by no means perfect, It has it's share of "patina & character" & may well have seen some type of action (post ww2 most likely) So I was not too surprised by all the replacement parts. It is however still in it's military configuration w/ no signs of ever being sporterized & has a very respectable bore (clean,bright,great rifling.) Stock is of the Johnson variety w/ out laminated cheek pieces. The bayonet & scabbard are originals & are both unumbered. Thanks again Brian & Ed for your time & info. I'll try to get a hold of Joe & see if he can hook me up w/ a main spring, bolt catch & maybe mag. door/cover spring.
  5. Ed & Brian, many thanks !! I greatly appreciate the info. My first thought was to message Joe on the parts, but kinna didn't want to bug him if he wasn't feeling better yet !!. I will go threw my Johnson in the next day or two & post results of components !! I'm really excited, again THANK YOU !!
  6. Hey Brian or Ed when you get a chance can you please search the records & see what components Johnson #0242 was assembled with ? Also, I could use a main spring if any one has an extra available, mine has fatigued to 11 1/2" inches from the accepted 12". May be interested in a bolt catch too & possibly a magazine cover/door spring ( I made a replacement out of spring steel that works great, but if someone has an "extra" original, I may be interested !!) thanks guys !!
  7. Curious, Hey buddy !! Wasn't ignoring you just been busy. Anyway, I initially loosened the sleeve w/ indirect heat as to avoid any discoloration or possible warping by slowly heating it over a glass top burner, which did work after several times of heating & cooling. Then worked on the area where the set screw had been to allow sleeve to slide off easier. I then decided to split the sleeve length wise to slightly spread it open making it even easier to slide off. After that using a block/piece of wood & some moderate blows it worked off w/ out any issues. It was a bit of a learning process & slightly nerve racking since I never removed any sleeve from a barrel, let alone an original Johnson, but I took my time & thought out each step. I would do it again now w/ out worries !! So, after sleeve was removed, I cleaned up the barrel steps & set pin grooves. I used 400 grit wet/dry paper, sanding w/ the machining marks in the barrel & various fine gun smith specific files. After wiping down w/ carb cleaner to remove any residue, I then test fit all components. Front sight fit perfectly very snug & actually required some light taps to seat. Bayonet lug was a little loose so, I actually made an extremely thin sleeve by sanding down the original sleeve. Then applied locktite to the barrel left it set-up & then did the same when installing the lug & finished off by pinning it. Made the pins for both bayonet lug & front sight out off steel stock & it worked perfectly. End result both are tight & secure & you really would be hard pressed to tell it ever was sleeved w/ a tapered front sight. Also re-blued everything from, bayonet lug step forward to match, that took several applications till I was happy w/ it. There are other ways & methods to perform what I had done, but the way I described worked out for me & again I couldn't be happier !! I've always been one to" just do it " & have found very rarely can you destroy something beyond fixable !! Wish I could post some pics, but have no luck when trying !! Curious, PM me if you want & I'll send you a few. I have no before (sorry) but will take some of the completed job & of the sleeve.
  8. UPDATE !! I fixed / restored the sights & bayonet lug on the Johnson !! After no luck w/ getting any local help I did it myself & it looks great ( would post pics but never can get them to load, says their to big but I use jpeg?) As it turned out whoever had originally installed the pistol style front sight was actually a very capable gun smith. Initially as you'd expect the machined steps for sight & lug would have been milled off to smooth out appearance, but as mentioned in earlier in the post that was not the case. What I thought then was an unmachined/finished replacement barrel (barrel is original w/ all correct Johnson marks/proofs) needing turned down to size to install bayonet lug & sight turned out to be even better yet !! Again, my thanks to the unknown individual who did the sight job, they thankfully had the insight to not alter the barrel, but instead took the time to machine a sleeve to fit perfectly over the step & sight & bayonet lug set pin grooves. It matched up w/ the outside taper of the bore perfect as well & even blended into the crown area virtually undetectable to the eye. The only way I actually realized it was sleeved was close inspection of the shallow set screw hole for the pistol sight. I noticed a tiny seam between the two metals & was like " wow that's a sleeve !!" So long story short, after a total of about 10 hours start to finish sleeve was removed everything cleaned up & inspected , then installed the original replacement bayonet lug & front sight. The are both tight & secure & bayonet fits perfectly !! Plus you'd be hard pressed to ever know what was done due to the fact all original work was still intact underneath all components are lined up straight & true. I finished it off by rebluing the barrel to match the rest of the rifle (yes, it had been blued & no longer parkerized) Now, the ole '41 has a little more of it's dignity back & I'm sure it sets a little taller on the rack w/ the other Johnsons !! (could be the fact the bayonet can be finally installed again..LOL !!) Thanks again to all you guys who provided parts & advice on both the barrel & bayonet !! Wally
  9. Amish-Bob, I sent you a P.M. w/ my location. thanks, Wally
  10. Tanker, Actually I got really lucky w/ that sight removal project. The barrel is an original johnson as previously mentioned, but (I could be wrong here) appears to have never been fully machined for the steps that the front sight & bayonet lug seat against (were any of the left over barrels sold this way as replacements?) The barrel is over sized & needs to be turned/machined down in order for me to get the sight & bayonet lug back on for stock configuration. I at first thought "great" someone had turned it down to "smooth out" the barrel due to lack of a prominent step, but nope that was my "good surprise" after removing the pistol style front sight. The sight itself came off surprisingly easy. All I had to do was tap the sight blade itself out & underneath was one tapered "set" screw, loosened it up & w/ a few gentle taps from a wood block it slid right off !! I was very,very pleased, did not have to heat n beat !! So, there is a small drilled depression for the "set" screw in the barrel, but nothing that can't be fixed as it is not obviously threw into the bore. Bore shows no distortion from the drilled hole. I Should be able to weld up the void & turn everything down to right diameter & install original sight & bayonet lug back on & give the old Johnson some dignity again !! However, I do not have the lathe to machine it down & do not want to let someone "give it a try" !! So, as stated if any of you guys can help me out, please let me know !!
  11. Ryche, I know you're right, but figured if we were in "the land of make believe" I could dream a little !! What I'm really looking for Tanker is a double barrel vertical mag Johnson w/ it's original forearm mounted bi-pod !! I would be willing to make payments too....think about it & pm me w/ price !! Wally
  12. Yep, I should list mine for $1400.00 (LOL) , but would like to find a johnson "project" rifle to use it on....So, if anyone has an "unwanted" johnson needing some tlc let me know !!
  13. Well, mission accomplished !! Replaced the bayonet catch & turned out well, I am very pleased !! Thanks to everyone & their advice. I ended up using a steel block shaped to fit head of rivet & then using my hyd. hand press slowly seated the rivet & it filled the beveled areas perfectly (rivets are softer than anticipated. Maybe could have trimmed 1/32-1/16 off the rivet length before hand, but it's flush & seated very securely. My originals are all slightly recessed, which in hindsight after doing this one can be fairly easily done if I had to again. Anyway, thanks again to everyone who offered their advice all were used in some form !! Wally Now, I need to get the original front sight & bayonet lug back on the other Johnson.....Hey there Mr. Scott if you're bored I may have a job for you if you'd want it !! I'd gladly send the barrel to you , After removing the pistol style front sight I was surprised at what was underneath ... in a good way !! However, I don't have access to what I would need to restore it correctly & do not want to ruin an original barrel !!
  14. Tanker, yep, rivet has domed head already. That's more less what I was thinking, steel block w/ dimple for head of rivet to rest in, but I'm planning to use my hyd. press to seat rivet. I figured after determining the approx. length of excess before the compression (rivet is definitely too long as is) I'd be able to control the seating w/ a more uniformed end result that should look close to the original. Not worried if it's perfect, but want a clean finish w/ the rivet snug & filling the void. May need to carefully file it flush. ( my originals are slightly below flush w/ void uniformly filled) but again if it turns out close i'll be happy. Thanks for the advice/tips all are appreciated. Probably will start working on it in the next month or so. Wally
  15. Hi Wapiti, sent you a personal message w/ contact info. may be interested in your rifle !! thank you !!