Repairing Johnson, Need Your Advice

[sledge101 0]

Hi All. First, thanks for this forum. I was at a loss trying to find information and I stumbled upon this forum and just reading a few posts I am confident you fellow Johnson collectors will sort me out.I

I will have more questions and I hope you can all be patient with me. I would like to do a complete detailed strip before firing it and I am stuck at the trigger mech area.

Cheers,

[Joseph Scott 0]

I don't recommend replacing the complete latch as it has a flush rivet that is hard to replace so latch swings. There is a small 1/6" pin keeping the button in latch and aligned. Remove that pin and work out the button and its spring. Clean hole with a drill and reinstall parts. Button has a flat on one side that allows button to move against the pin and keeps beveled end aligned. You may have to drill a small hole from the bottom to drive out the button. On the missing front cross pin retainer, it is not listed on any parts list as it was considered part of the forearm. It is a sheet metal piece which fits around the end and has a small nail from the back into the wood. I hand make a replacement pin retainer and have new cross pins also. Drop the forearm and you will likely see the remains and small nail. Keep special nail. Message me. Don't try oversize bullets, it will cause serious overpressure.

[Alan1945 0]

Sledge, by any chance is that the one off of CGN? I was following the original thread on that one, and was curious to see exactly what the problem is.

[sledge101 0]

BTW - that is a great piece of advice Joseph.

[Alan1945 0]

Thanks for the info -- hope you get everything back together OK. I just picked up my own M1941 over the weekend and have yet to fire it.

[ryche_me 0]

Hey: I highly recomend not only Joe's dvd about dis and reassembly but also the "BOOK" by Canfield Johnson rifles and machine guns. Both are essential to newly owned Johnsons. Sure you can do it without them, but most here will agree with me that they are gold for info Alan have you taken yours apart yet? if not its recommended before you shoot it. Pull the butt plate and remove and measure the main spring. It should measure at 12 inches. Most of the orig. springs have long since lost their "spring" Joe has new made replacements and they work beautifully. I found out the hard way with one of mine after firing it for several years with a shot out spring, it can cause recoil damage to both your shoulder and the rifle itself. Anyway good luck to both you guys and welcome to the forum. Ryche

[sledge101 0]

Agree knowledge=power. I ordered those books last week. Did not know about the DVD. What no welcome pack for newbies? I have just about everything taken apart now except the what I would describe as the entire trigger mech assembly. It appears to just slide off the receiver. Not moving at all... but I see a few pins that maybe pop out first? Don't want to pop pins I won't be able to fit back in if this assembly does not come off. Actually this seems like a simple rifle to take apart. Everything seems to be common sense. It's like it was designed by a soldier instead of an engineer. Sorry for the engineers out there.

[Alan1945 0]

Ryche, I took it apart over the weekend. The springs looked OK (no obvious signs of cracking/distortion) but I didn't take a close look. If I have time, I'll measure the main spring tonight. I'm waiting for the magazine pin, so I won't be taking it to the range until that's in.

Anyway, enough of me hijacking sledge's thread.

[Joseph Scott 0]

The hammer block assembly (trigger group) should slide off the receiver unless the rear pull pin is still in place. The hammer block assembly has two portions, hammer section and trigger section. The hammer comes apart by pushing out two pins freeing up the hammer and its spring. Clean and oil. The trigger end has several small cross pins which are staked on each end to prevent sideways movement. If you take them out, be sure to restake each end. If they move out and come loose, you can get slam firing. Staking them is critical. I usually remove hammer and spring, then wash out trigger section with solvent. If you loose the small trigger pins, they are special size, so work over a piece of carpet or towel. Another critical test is to check that the hammer hooks have not been altered. It once was popular to modify them so you could hold trigger back and gun would go full auto. Very Dangerous! Hold the hammer down all the way and pull and hold trigger, slowly release hammer and it should be held by the secondary hook, then holding hammer, pull trigger again, and hammer should go upwards into firing mode. I have seen this twice on Johnson's. When firing normally, hold rifle firmly against shoulder so it will not "bounce fire" (double fire). As for the engineers, Mr Johnson hired the best available, he had the concepts, and they worked out the details. Much credit is due to the company staff for a fine product. I have seen many of the blueprints and most were signed and approved by the "engineers". When you read the book, you will get a better idea about the organization. There were many small changes and improvements between 1939 and 1941 models.

[ryche_me 0]

Hey Alan: Also sledge its all good actually, to have both on one thread, as you both are in the same boat at the moment,,,,,New to you rifles and alot of questions. Anyway continue asking as most here are glad to answer. We don't mind new guys as it gives us a chance to show off Ryche

[sledge101 0]

I have slugged my barrel and it measures .323 at its smallest. WoW. It completely swallows an 8mm Mauser round at the muzzle end. The previous owner said he fired one 30-06 round in it successfully. Is it possible that it was converted to 8mm-06?

[Joseph Scott 0]

If it is .323 at the smallest, it is probably too large for 8mm in the larger areas. Another possibility is .35 Whelen which may work. Don't know who does this reboring/rifleing? If you try that cartridge, you may have to experiment with loads to duplicate .30-06 so main spring will cycle gun properly. Hopefully I can get back to making .30-06 barrels after my next eye treatment in mid Nov.

[sledge101 0]

Thanks Joe. Good luck with the eye surgery and keep me posted on the barrel situation. I think mine is kaput.