-
Content count
609 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by M48TANKER
-
-
Barry, the final bid was $331.00 ...and then there is shipping on top of that. I figure the winner will have $350.00 in it by the time it gets to him. In order to win I would have to bid over the $331.00 and who knows how much it might have taken to outbid the other gentleman? So, I figured that he wanted it more than I did. Then there was the fact that the cross cuts for the bayonet lug and front sight were not going to be right for a JSAR. If I was building the LMG...well maybe the barrel would have been worth more to me. I noticed that the winning bidder was also bidding on a LMG buttstock, so I assumed that he REALLY wanted the barrel. Judging from his feedback lately, he has no qualms about spending whatever it takes to buy what he's bidding on, so I knew he could outbid me.
When bidding on Gunbroker it sometimes pays to look at the feedback of who you are bidding against and see what sort of merchandise they buy, their patterns and amount of expenditures. I hope that he enjoys his "new" barrel...I really do!
TANKER
-
Thanks Mr. Scott. I measured my mainspring and found it to be 11&5/8 of an inch, so I'll be ordering a new mainspring. In comparing the stock on the gun, which has a cheekplate and recoil pad on it, the "buffer" tube seems to be farther forward than a buffer tube on another stock that I bought. One which has no cheekplate and just the steel buttplate. This "plain" stock's buffer tube is set so far back that it keeps you from screwing the buffer tube cap on the back far enough into the stock to put the metal buttplate back on. I am thinking that the buffer tube on the "plain" stock has slipped backward at some point by about 3/4's of an inch. This would have the same effect as a short buffer spring would it not? So I didn't put this "new/plain" stock on the rifle. The holes on the side of the stock are filled in anyway. In order to use this stock, I'm assuming that I'll need to remove the plugs from the holes in the sides and reposition the buffer tube farther forward? What would be the proper distance for the buffer tube to be away from the rear of the trigger housing?...or some other point of reference, and what is the proper way to reposition it using the key stock that I hope is inside? Thanks.
-
Barry in IN, well I quit bidding when the barrel started to get over $200.00 I think.
I appreciate the fact that you said that you would not bid against me...that was very courteous of you.
It would have been perfectly OK if you had wanted to bid however. That is just the way an auction works: the object may be worth more to one guy than it is to another. I know I've refrained from bidding when my brother is getting a good deal on Gunbroker. You REALLY wouldn't want to bid against my brother, as he'll pay anything just to be the winner!
An extra barrel would be nice to have but my barrel seems to be practically new. I wouldn't pass up a really cheap bargain however. I'm mainly wanting to get rid of my nice ramped sporter sight and put an original sight and a bayonet lug back on. My present barrel has such a nice blueing job that I thought I might just want to restore an extra barrel.
Thank you too, Mr. Scott for providing the information we needed to make an informed decision. TANKER
-
I think the LMG barrel is just about to get out of my price range. What's it worth? The owner says the locking lugs are good?
-
Thanks Mr. Scott, I'm going to bid for a little while. Will the pin cuts from the rear leg of the LMG barrel be covered by the JSAR bayonet lug, and will the front JSAR sight cover the pin cuts left by the LMG front sight? Wow....I'm having to learn fast about this stuff. Thanks, Michael Roper
-
I was considering bidding on it. I don't know if it will fit or not? Someone here will know. TANKER
-
Today I shot my "new" 1941 Johnson for the first time! What a pleasure.
I loaded ten rounds in the magazine and proceeded to fire them all in rapid succession. I think that the rifle did great.
The brass was thrown in a low arc 90 degrees from the action and landed about 20 feet away...that may be too far?
If that seems to be an unreasonable distance for the brass to go, does that mean I may need a new action/buffer spring? I managed to find nine of the ten spent brass casings. They all had a tiny pencil dot size ding about 3/4 in. from the back rim of the brass. Nothing that won't disappear with a tiny file, but I wonder what the brass is hitting and how to cure that.
-
Mr Scott, how do I get in touch with you to order parts? Thanks, TANKER...."michaeleroper@comcast.net"
-
Just curious as to price? Can you send pictures to: "michaeleroper@comcast.net"
I'm looking for a front sight. Thanks
-
Hello again! Within a few days, I hope!, this 1941 Johnson should be delivered to me. I bought it from a fellow named George Belford who lives in Maine. I know it's packaged up and ready to ship to me. I can't wait. I'll let you all know when it gets here. I'll have more info by then. I think that the serial number is B5921, the picture is a little fuzzy. I intend to restore it to full military configuration. I'll be needing a front sight..anybody have one? I'd even accept one with the "ears" ground off, but would rather have the unmolested original. I'm also looking for a bayonet. Here is what George told me about the rifle: (Quote) "Mike, the bore in like new and I have fired it no problem at all . I have had the gun for over 25 years maybe more. I bought it off a guy who use to work for Johnson Automatics . He said he took it to the barrel maker's place and he sporterized it . I think the barrel maker's name was Kemp and lived in Hope R.I." (end quote).....That's all I know so far. Here are some pictures from George that I posted on my "Hunt101" picture hosting site:
-
Hey guys and gals, somewhere on the internet, during my continuing search for a Johnson, I ran across a bit of information. Someone had posted the serial number of his Johnson which had been stolen. I can't seem to find that bit of information right now, but would like to keep it handy since I'm so actively searching for a Johnson and don't want to buy a stolen gun. Thanks, TANKER
-
Hello All, when a Johnson exhibits some "pitting," or whatever, on the receiver, can this be subdued by using a die grinder with a "scotch brite pad" and sort of smoothing the metal up? Please don't freak on me now. I've built several older military guns that had imperfections in the metal finish. I was able to use the die grinder with the "scotch brite" disc to smoothe and level up the surface of the sideplate of a M2Hb after rivetng on the sideplate for example. After parkerizing you couldn't tell there ever was a flaw. Since a lot of these guns have been "redone" by Cranston, or whoever...I can't see what "refurbishing", reparking, and refinishing the wood could possibly hurt. It's not as if you are removing the patina on an original firearm, now is it? Thanks, M48TANKER
-
That's a very nice looking rifle you have there. I wish I had the cash to buy it! I do however have a lot of trading material, guns, Military vehicles, etc. Any interest? TANKER
-
Thank you for the observations. I did notice the missing bayonet lug and the pin cut in the barrel farther back...but I didn't know what that rear pin slot meant. All information is appreciated since I hope to make an informed decision.
-
I would like opinions on this Johnson that is for auction on GB.Auction # 157272092
I realize that you won't know a lot more about it than is advertised, but any help would be appreciated. I don't want to buy a "bad gun". I want a "cream of the crop" rifle at a "bottom of the barrel price" ...who doesn't?
Thanks for any help you can give me. TANKER
-
Great looking rifle. I just joined this forum a few days ago and this in my first post. I've been looking at Johnsons for several years now. I couldn't afford one ten years ago, and just waited for a "bargain" to come along. I can't tell you how many $1000.00 rifles I passed up looking for just the right one! Now, that I've waited so long...I still can't afford one, but my wife wants it, so I'll just have to let her have one. Here I am again...looking for just the right one. I can only hope to find one as nice as yours. Great pictures too. I have more "trading material", as in other firearms, than I have cash. I'm hoping to make a deal with someone? If you have a nice 1941 Johnson for sale or trade, partial trade plus cash? just let me know. Thanks and hello everyone! M48TANKER....Vietnam Vet, 1969/1970.
in Johnson 1941 Rifle
Posted · Report post
Hello All, I acquired some "new" wood for my 1941 Johnson. This is "aftermarket" furniture, or the military style Winfield wood. This "new" wood is in near perfect condition...no dings, scratches, and it's got a beautiful finish...too good actually. The hole for the little square steel bar that stops the recoil is not present over the trigger guard area? I realize that I will have to drill a hole over the trigger guard area for the stop that holds the sear housing/trigger housing. I'll have to start a hole the size of the screw head with a flat bit with the anti-chip cutters on the outer edges. Stopping before the bit cuts all the way through. Then, I'll drill a small hole, just undersize of the steel bar, and then square it up. The front wood, or forestock, already has the holes for the square recoil stop bar in it. Now the next part I'll need some information on. The recoil stop/square bar for the spring tube does not seem to be in the right place. The spring tube seems to sit too far back but I don't know what the distance should be. On my complete Johnson the distance from the front of the tube to the rear of the receiver is about 1&3/4 inches, measured at the back of the cut out for the action. On the "new" wood the spring tube is 2 inches back from the same benchmark. The location of the spring tube has a direct relationship to the function of the bolt when it recoils. I already need a new mainspring/recoil spring since mine measures 11&5/8s instead of 12 inches. If I install this recoil spring in the spring tube of the new stock, then the assembly will be even farther back than it is now. The answer seems to be to drill out the plugs on the sides of the "new" stock and reposition the spring tube forward...but how much forward? What is the factory measurement? I've posted some pictures on my "Hunt101" page so you can have a look. A picture is worth a thousand words and easier to attach that to type all this!!! Sorry if my nomenclature is not accurate but I'll learn the names of all the parts eventually. Thanks, TANKER..."michaeleroper@comcast.net"
http://www.hunt101.com/showgallery.php?ppuser=8666&cat=500