Thanks to Joseph Scott

[M48TANKER 0]

I just want to say "Thank You" to Joseph Scott for his quick service and great advice on my order for 1941 Johnson parts. I changed out my Winfield Deluxe Sporter stock (with cheekpiece and rubber recoil pad) for a replacement stock more in the military configuration. I had to locate and countersink the holes for the recoil stop that is above the trigger guard. All it took was the right tools and some patience. Measure about a dozen times and drill once...because that's the only chance you'll get to do it right! Using measuring instruments from my machinest's toolbox and my carpenter's tools too, I was able to mark the location of the holes and drill them accurately. I used a self-centering, self-countersinking, woodworkers drill bit...that I used to use when I installed screws into the stiles of kitchen cabinets when I spent 36 years as a Custom Homebuilding Contractor. A carpenter's try-square came in handy too, and masking tape protected the area around where the hole was to be drilled. A tiny bit of work with a wood carving chisel to make room for the little square piece of bar stock....and my recoil stop was installed. Then I replaced my tired 11&5/8ths inch recoil/buffer spring with a new 12 inch long spring, and installed the new bolt hold open...piece of cake! I will test fire it tomorrow. Next on my agenda will be to replace the Dahl ramped front sight with Mr. Scott's newly made military style sight, and replace the bayonet lug. I purchased a reamer for drilling and installing the pins on the sight and bayonet lug. Now to try to get that ramped sight off the blued barrel without doing any damage to the muzzle end of the barrel. Using my digital micrometer, it appears that the sight and bayonet lug will both fit without haveing to turn down the end of the barrel in my lathe...I hope that I'll get that lucky. I'll keep you posted. I welcome all comments and suggestions on removing the Dahl ramped sight to minimize finish damage to the barrel. M48TANKER michaeleroper@comcast.net

[Brian Alpert 0]

The Dahl ramp sights are usually sweated on so you may have to heat it up and later remove the solder. I really had a time with one until I realized it was sweated on.

[M48TANKER 0]

The Dahl ramp sights are usually sweated on so you may have to heat it up and later remove the solder. I really had a time with one until I realized it was sweated on.

Thanks Brian, that's what I thought. Do you know if they used silver solder back then? Doesn't silver solder take 1100 degrees to melt? Usually a propane torch won't get that hot. I've got a Mapp gas torch that would be just right. Acetylene and oxygen would get too hot too fast I'm afraid. I'm hoping to retain the bluing, but that might just be wishful thinking. I can reblue it but it would be nice not to have to. Heck, I'd buy another barrel if I could find a blued one with the bayonet lug and original sight on it. I could just let the Dahl sight grow on me. You sure see plenty of Johnsons with that sight on them, even in the older pictures. But there is just something about the original configuration that I like. (along with every other "collector" I suppose)

[Joseph Scott 0]

The sporter ramp sights have a hidden screw under the blade. Punch out the small pins and bump sight blade forward. You will see the hidden screw, soak with penetrating oil and remove it. Some sights are not soldered but if so, they used soft solder. Clamp barrel in padded vise and use a 12" adjustable wrench to turn sight, then bump it forward. Sometimes they are hard to move and you must use a square piece of metal to knock it forward. Everyone that I have done, required machining to put back the step. Same for the lug. On ocassion, I had to grind the bottom of sight to split it for removal. Good luck