New guy here and new to the Johnson...

[Gman 0]

Regarding Oxpho-blue, I used it to rescue a rusty Johnson that I purchased on GB. Here are before and after pics of the barrel.

Before

After

This one is now my best shooter. Thank goodness the bore was practically pristine with just some minor pitting at the muzzle. So, yes I recommend Oxpho-blue.

The last Johnson I saw at a gun show that was re-parked was so tight that it would not cycle.

[spankybear 0]

Found a bolt hold back and dropped that in ... Much nicer...

I took the rifle out and had a bit of problem with a failure to extract. I don't know if it's the ammo or chamber. I was using HXP from the CMP...

[M48TANKER 0]

Joe Scott can tell you how he polishes the chambers. This seems to be a problem with a lot of the chambers... a minor blemish can cause the brass to stick.

I will defer to Joe's expertise. I'm sure he'll check in with the proper method to fix the glitch.

[ryche_me 0]

If its done sparingly, i use a wood dowl with a slot cut in the end to hold some worn cloth emery paper.

Mount the dowl in a drill held in a vice lock the drill on and run the emery on the dowl down the chamber only once or twice.

USE worn!! emery or you can damage the chamber.

It works well just don't over do it.

Its not scientific but in a 19th century shop like mine not much is .

Ryche

[M48TANKER 0]

Regarding Oxpho-blue, I used it to rescue a rusty Johnson that I purchased on GB. Here are before and after pics of the barrel.

.So, yes I recommend Oxpho-blue.

Gman,

Would you mind sending me a pm with a description of your methods of preparing the metal for Oxpho-blue and applying it? Or just post it here if others would like to know also. Thanks, TANKER

[Steve(WA) 0]

Pics of the new Johnson....

Will just a complete wood stock set make it military configuration? Metal looks straight, has the bayo lug, etc. Still waiting to hear from Mr Scott, hope things are OK with him.

[spankybear 0]

If its done sparingly, i use a wood dowl with a slot cut in the end to hold some worn cloth emery paper.

Mount the dowl in a drill held in a vice lock the drill on and run the emery on the dowl down the chamber only once or twice.

USE worn!! emery or you can damage the chamber.

It works well just don't over do it.

Its not scientific but in a 19th century shop like mine not much is .

Ryche

I use a dowel and some 0000 steel wool and a drill motor. Well that's what I use on M1 Garands when they need it...

[spankybear 0]

Pics of the new Johnson....

Will just a complete wood stock set make it military configuration? Metal looks straight, has the bayo lug, etc. Still waiting to hear from Mr Scott, hope things are OK with him.

Nice looking rifle...

[ryche_me 0]

Looks good New wood should do the military trick.

Ryche

[Gman 0]

Gman,

Would you mind sending me a pm with a description of your methods of preparing the metal for Oxpho-blue and applying it? Or just post it here if others would like to know also. Thanks, TANKER

Oops, sorry. I just revisited this thread. Here's how I did it.

First I "Googled" the process and read a lot of information on other gun boards. Combining that information with the Oxpho-Blue directions and using some trial and error, I arrived at this process (this is for retouching, not a complete refinish):

1. Remove as much rust as possible and clean with alcohol. I didn't want to use an abrasive as suggested on the bottle as I wanted to preserve as much of the original finish as possible. Steel wool wouldn't work at first because the rust tore it apart. Following another's suggestion, I smashed the throat of a spent 30-06 cartridge and used it as a scraper. It worked great. Once the big chunks of rust were knocked down the steel wool went to work. I used 0000 steel wool. Remember, you can't get into the rust pits with the wool. That's the chemical's job.

2. Saturate a small cotton ball with solution and cover the entire part. Areas not darkening should be re-cleaned and solution re-applied. You can control the darkness by how much you apply and how fast you apply the solution. Also, you can re-apply it over itself to darken. I kept at it until I matched what was left of the original finish.

3. Allow the chemical to work without drying 60 seconds and wipe dry in one pass with a clean cloth.

4. Now, the bottle instructions say when completely dry, burnish with #0 steel wool, or finer. Do not do this unless you want the part to be shiny and look like it was blued. Just wiping the part dry keeps the "Parkerized" character that you are probably looking for.

5. I let the parts sit for 24 hours and applied Remoil.

Regards,

Gary