Having a little problem with my M1941

[spankybear 0]

I took the rifle out twice. First time I fired the rifle, two rounds, the second cartage stuck in the chamber. Took the rifle home and did a good cleaning and polished the chamber. The next time out the rifle seem to extract fine but wouldn't always eject or lock the bolt back or pick up the round. I looked the the cartage to see if there was any signs of the case sticking. I didn't see any. It's as if there's isn't enough recoil or the spring it too stiff. Anybody have any ideas?

[ryche_me 0]

What kind of ammo are you using? Ryche

[Joseph Scott 0]

With the bolt back, try moving barrel down to insure no drag, it should return fast. It is more common for chambers to have minute pitting which you can't see but drags on brass. Polish a unfired round with Skotch Brite by chucking bullet in 3/8" drill until all scratches are gone. Fire and inspect case with a magnifier looking for very small smeared spots. If you don't see any, try small amount of oil on case. If it cycles well, problem is chamber. Other possible areas to inspect are the recoil tube and the follower. I have seen tubes with a worn spot about 3/4" down which slowed cycle. Also inspect follower that the vent holes from the spring side are open. Small hole from bottom and a cross hole to vent air during cycle. If main spring has grease, clean and replace with some type of oil. The usual problem with springs are originals took a set and eject cases too hard. I have never had a problem with my new springs. Also inspect bolt lugs and be sure the back edges are not burred. Occasionally I find bolt lugs or collar internal lugs that are hammered. Dress with jeweler's file.

[spankybear 0]

 

What kind of ammo are you using?Ryche

 

Greek HXP

[ryche_me 0]

In that case i would follow Joe's advise as we know its not weak reloads. Have you ever had the main spring out? Mine was full of dirt a grease from long ago that was hard as a rock. Joe's attention to the finer detail has kept many of our rifles running Ryche

[spankybear 0]

 

In that case i would follow Joe's advise as we know its not weak reloads.Have you ever had the main spring out?Mine was full of dirt a grease from long ago that was hard as a rock.Joe's attention to the finer detail has kept many of our rifles running :)Ryche

 

Yes I have had the spring out and as a matter of fact I have refinished the rifle and had everything apart... I did gears the spring with Tetra Grease.. Maybe this is a problem?

[Mitch J 0]

A little grease wont hurt the spring, The spring length is the critical thing. You mentioned that the Bolt didn't lock back, Do you have a bolt hold open device on it?

[spankybear 0]

A little grease wont hurt the spring, The spring length is the critical thing. You mentioned that the Bolt didn't lock back, Do you have a bolt hold open device on it?

Yes I have a bolt hold in the rifle... The spring was a tad under 12" I believe like maybe 1/16"

[Joseph Scott 0]

1/16" under length is fine, should not be the problem. Does your bolt catch work manually? Sounds like bolt is not cycling back far enough. If the gun is clean, that leaves the chamber as likely problem. I use a small 12 mm diameter "flexhone" available from machinists supply houses. You can use water or honing oil. Run, with lubricant, fairly slow in variable drill, slowly force down to shoulder, keep moving backward and forwards. Depending on what you see on a polished, fired case, I suggest about 2 min for first try. Clean & dry bore and test fire with polished rounds, repeat honing and testing until it cycles ok. I have had to do as many as seven runs to the range. I did find one barrel that had good tapered walls but had a small groove in the neck portion of chamber, look at full length of cases. After several jobs, as the flexhone wears, the ends of the little wires will come through the emery balls. Don't use it to that point, as it will scratch the chamber worse than before.