Joseph Scott

You have a Garand M1 barrel which has been machined to fit. The two deep "gouges" are the remains of the grooves for the M1 handguard clip. It was never turned for a bayonet lug but can be machined for lug and new front sight. Bore should be excellent as these were probably new barrels when modified.

Measuring from the center of large key over trigger, stock should be 14.5" plus or minus 1/16". The swivel is 2" from bottom tip of stock. Small key should be 8.00" from large key. The large key is the locating point. The small key positions the recoil tube assembly and is very inportant to be correctly located as it effects bolt operation. Most sporter stocks with a plugged hole have a small piece of key stock epoxyied inside. Usually not in right location and you have to drill opposite side and drive it out. This damages wood around the hole. Check spring length=12" and for wear on coils, also buffer should be smooth when depressed and check inside tube for corrosion, pitting.

The stock is normally too thin to accept a buttplate or swivel. Originals are 1-5/8" wide at rear. Another problem with old sporter stocks are they are drilled straight through and there is nothing for the buffer flange to bear against. The buffer should bear against a shoulder to put tension on the small key and hold the recoil tube. Color on original stocks varies but the factory color film shows them being dipped in a dark color liquid, then buffed to set the finish. Some are very dark yet others seem unstained before finishing. Jim Pullens research may uncover more information on these variations.

There was discussion several months ago on this. I have one of the 23 "loaned" to USMC (after searching for many years). Another member found it and sold it to me. Only the receiver is as shipped. I plan on bringing it to the West Springfield get-to-gether in June. Also a named bayonet/scabbard (mostly see numbers). Keep looking as most Johnson's are still out there. My thoughts are that more than 80% of the Johnson's still exist here in US. I just learned of a local USMC retired sergant who either served with or used a Johnson. Hope to interview him soon.

I was recently offered JR 0039 for $9000. "Flat mint, except somebody drilled something off behind front sight". Even if barrel had not been messed with, I told him I thought his price was too high unless it had some special documentation. He had not done any research on it. Bet it will show up soon on the net. Get your money ready!

Thanks, Bob. It has the correct bolt, locking cam, extractor and firing pin. Other items are mismatched. The bolt number (3038) was stamped on right side of stock in 5/16" numbers. #18 was on left side in 3/4" numbers. First time I have seen a bolt number on wood.

Bob, could you check information on 3729, I just acquired. Shows inport mark IA Co. SAC CA. and external corrosion. Even bolt is corroded on exposed area. Looks like salt attack and it has the tightly attached dirt deposits which you have to mechanically remove. Think I can save it. Stock was cracked through at front stock screw and had a military style brass pin across break. Wish these guns could talk!

Rodd, I don't know about the export laws for gun parts to outside USA, nor import laws in your country. Shipping may be costly? What do you need?

Note the color of the magazine. It is blued finish. I have thought for a long time that the blued ones were original as are the parkerized ones. I believe prior statements that blued magazines were postwar reworks, by importers, were not correct.

Sandy, removing the stock to recock hammer, is easiest way. On your muzzle gage, if you have a commercial tapered gage, it is likely not correct. The one's being sold are +,- .001". Check the gage with a good micrometer. There is a remote possibility that bore is small if it was not finished reamed after boring. Check muzzle for burrs also. If it shoots good, don't sweat it.

Your barrel is a typical sporter style. The sight is a commonly available commercial one from the 1950's. If barrel is a Johnson, it will be marked over chamber area with " J. A. ", ".30-06", and have a small proof mark in a circle(looks like a candle or sword). If it has a good bore, I can convert it back to military for you. Information on the lettered series guns is still lost.

Pete, with a Johnson barrel and bolt, headspace should not be a problem. Clean the chamber well and with the gun pointed safely, try a new cartridge. Bolt should go home and rotate downward into locked position. If it doesn't rotate and lock, there are several things to check. First: is the stock recoil key exactly 8" from the recoil key above the trigger. Second: inspect main spring, inside of tube, follower and buffer for corrosion or roughness. The position and condition of these are critical to bolt lock-up. Main spring should be 12" long. If your stock cracks are open, an excellant repair is to use super glue in cracks. It works great in wood.